RailPro > RailPro Specific Help & Discussion
Need Help with First Installation
MtRR75:
Thanks for the useful suggestions.
Note: My responses may not always be prompt, but I will eventually get back to you. I have two other hobbies, plus major house renovations in progress, plus church projects and yard projects.
New questions:
(1) What are the advantages (and disadvantages) of putting 2 speakers in the tender? Is it for volume? Different range? (bass vs. higher pitches)? Or what?
(2) Regarding the 9-pin connector on the LM-3S where can I get a 9-pin receiver with the wires already attached? Ring only includes the 6-pin receiver and wires in the LM-3S package
(3) What is the best way to bundle the wires neatly between the loco and the tender, and still allow the loco-tendet joint to flux on my 18: curves? It looks like I will have 5 wires: headlight (+ & ), motor (+ & ), and right rail. (Left rail is only collected via tender pickups.) Is this correct?
Below are some of the solutions to this problem used by those who have done installations for me. Keep in mind that my emphasis is for smooth running over precise prototypic design
(3a) Mini plugs with 5 or 6 slots? Like those found in some Bachmann steamers. Their big pluses are that the loco and tender can be easily separated and reconnected, and they look neat and orderly. But I find that either they are very difficult to separate or they separate too easily during running. Also, how do you insert the tiny wires into the plugs?
All of the other solutions keep the loco and tender stay connected for life.
(3b) Little loops? They look like slices taken off heat shrink-tubing before it was heated. They are easy to put on, and they collect and constrain wires better than doing nothing. But they tend to fall to bottom of loops, leaving no control in the tops of loops. Also they are more visible and less prototypical than plain wires.
(3c) Heat-shrink tubing? This can be the best-looking all wires in one bundle. But I have one big objection. When my loco stops dead, and I am searching for the problem, it is hard to trace wires through lumps of heat-shrink tubing. And if I suspect that a wire came loose, I cant tell if it is a loose wire without ripping up the entire heat shrunk bundle. And even if every thing works, the heat-shrunk section is not very flexible. I have one small steamer with very little room between the cab and the tender. The installer did a better and neater job than I could ever do. But the bundled and heat-shrunk section of wires sits folded in a Z-shaped pattern sticking out of both sides of the loco. Occasionally the bundled wires shift, which sometimes leads to a derailment.
(3d) Continuous wires Basically do nothing. Let each wire follow its own pattern to its destination. Besides looking sloppy, the biggest problem is that wires that can get caught in the moving gears or get pinched when the shell is reinstalled. But it does make it easy to track down electrical failures.
Any other ideas?
ON28:
Removing too much of the iPhone speaker body will negatively affect the quality of sound output.
CPRail:
Touching on Doug's second set of questions:
1. I haven't done a two speaker install yet (I have a set of E8s on the workbench that will get two), so I'll leave it to the experts like Kevin for the pros & cons on that one.
2. Ring sells the 9 pin connector with wires separately - P/N WH-9. Our fearless host, Bill, sells them in 2 packs and 5 packs. www.pdc.ca
3. I'll defer to the group on the wire bundling between tender and loco. The only steamer I've done was a Genesis loco and it had a plug between loco and tender.
MtRR75:
Thanks for the replies. The tender is pretty large. I should have room for the full sized Iphone speakers.
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