Author Topic: Switches and control  (Read 1329 times)

mickey

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Switches and control
« on: September 05, 2024, 10:01:42 PM »
I am just getting into the RailPro with battery for my outdoor G scale.  I had originally bought 2 AM-1 for switch control to get started.  So I started to read up on them and see an issue.  First, they say in a dry environment and second is the distance. Basically with a distance of 20’, how can you possibly use these outdoors. My previous system (LocoLinc) I had a board mounted in a closet on an outside wall and had conduit run from that out to the garden and ran a multi strand solid wire cable thru it. Perfect for keeping everything inside nice and dry. I have no idea how far the wire has to go, but it could easily be up to 50’ for some of the switches. How on earth can anyone make it work outside in a midsize garden railroad?  I don’t want to constantly unwire and take things inside.  What is the solution?  I now see the AM-1 is replaced by the TC but it us still the same issue.

Next, I have a number of the LGB switches controllers.  Are they considered motorized or snap?  I will end up with probably 10-15 switches by the time I’m done.

Input is appreciated beforeindive any further.

G8B4Life

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Re: Switches and control
« Reply #1 on: September 06, 2024, 09:47:50 PM »
Where did you get 20ft from? The AM-1 manual gives a warning that the range is over 100ft so to be wary that "your neighbours could control your AM-1", if your neighbours used RailPro as well that is.

Dry environment does not equal do not use outdoors ever. The AM-1 is not IP68 rated so if you wanted to install it outdoors you'd want to make some sort of weatherproof enclosure for it to protect it while your not running trains on a nice sunny day like you did for your previous system. Bringing them inside after the days running might actually be the easiest to do even though it's not what you want to do. If you wired the AM-1 up to a plug and socket set up you could simply plug and unplug them at will without disturbing the actual wiring of the AM-1. Of course how you want to distribute the AM-1s and the LGB switch controllers you have around the garden is going to be the determining factor, 50ft is an awfully long wire to drive a large scale point motor, especially if it's a snap type.

Even though there's not much in this thread another user (mcbunton) has done what you are wanting to do and with some luck they might come across this thread and chime in.

As for the LGB switch controllers, I have no idea on them and without something more concrete to go on like a part number sorry I'm not going to go searching on them.

- Tim
« Last Edit: September 06, 2024, 11:42:33 PM by G8B4Life »

mickey

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Re: Switches and control
« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2024, 11:15:40 PM »
In the manual, it specifically says 16ga gets you 20 feet.  This is the wire that goes from the AM-1 to the actual switch motor/controller.  My understanding is that the LGB switch controllers  (LGB 12010 G EPL SWITCH DRIVE) is the mail switch controller for outdoors. Maybe not.   So as I understand it, I would have to disconnect each switch wire (I'll have maybe 10 switches)) to bring in the AM-1 plus the power supply unless I’m missing something. Obviously I could create a water proof box for them. I’m going to need 2-3 of these plus the power supply. So I need to keep it centrally located but the 20’ by the time you go around things becomes very limiting.

Also, I tried to go to the link but it did not work.

G8B4Life

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Re: Switches and control
« Reply #3 on: September 07, 2024, 12:08:46 AM »
Ah, now I understand, I thought you were talking radio range, not wire length. In that case yes 20ft is probably about right; first and foremost the AM-1 is an indoor item designed for H0 and similar sized layouts. It's not meant for driving things over long distances, I don't think I've known anyone to put all their point controllers in one spot, but put them in close proximity to the points being thrown.

Now that said, expanding a bit the AM-1 is not designed for driving significant loads over long distances; if the AM-1 was just being used as a "data line" so to speak to something else that throws the points and takes all the grunt in doing so (for example a high power relay)  then there really shouldn't be any reason you could not drive that something else from a significant distance (wire length).

That's just a very board example mind you. I looked up the LGB 12010 and that's just about the worst manufacturers documentation I have ever come across, it doesn't even mention what type of point machine it is so I don't know if it's coil or motor driven.

I've fixed the link. Again, mcbunton has done this this already so hopefully he'll be able to pipe in to give you better pointers than I can.

- Tim

mickey

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Re: Switches and control
« Reply #4 on: September 07, 2024, 07:25:45 AM »
Thanks.  I’ll look at that link.  I think I remember seeing or reading that the LGB is a coil. I see what you talking about in terms of trying to rig up some sort of relay for each switch and then just have the AM1 throw the relay.  So say 10 switches = 10 relays.  I’ll have to think on that.

gregeusa

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Re: Switches and control
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2024, 04:51:51 PM »
by the way, LGB switch motors are a weird hybrid.

Even though there is a rotating armature inside with a gear, it is essentially a solenoid, and should be interpreted as a "snap action" in most cases.

Specifically, it needs a pulse of voltage to move, and it needs to be momentary, and the polarity of the pulse determines the direction...

hopefully that is enough to determine the settings...
Lots of tips and techniques on my site: www.elmassian.com contact me greg@elmassian.com