Bachmann Fairbanks Morse H16-44

[Coupe633]

I was wondering if anyone has installed an LM into the Bachmann FM 16-44. I was horrified when I opened one up to see how Bachmann has designed their locomotive frames as halves. I would not have any problems taking the metal frames to the grinder but this design explains why they have problems with their locomotives not performing very well. I have a number of their K4's and found there is no way to install even DCC into them. While there is room in the tender getting a wiring harness up to the locomotive and motor would be very difficult and the way the K4 frame is halved explains why they tend to wobble down the track. I gutted the motors out of my K-4's and they will be weathered and waiting on a side track for scrapping as non functioning locomotives. The FM 16-44 is built similar and removing some material from the frame would weaken the frame since the center two screws would probably need to be removed leaving the two halves connected only at each end. Has anyone found a good way to install a LM-3s into a Bachmann FM 16-44? I really like the detail Bachmann has but not how they are constructed. Not sure if I just just sell this one or take a chance at removing some of the material on the frame halves. Without the two middle screws the locomotive could vibrate since the motor may not be securely mounted. I would love to see if anyone has done one of these and how you did it.

[G8B4Life]

Wow, that is such an exceptionally bad design. Can't offer much, searching only bought up a few results here and there. Probably the best for ideas is this thread over at MRH Magazine: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/bachmann-spectrum-fairbanks-morse-h1644-decoder-conversion-12219022, and this one: https://forum.mrhmag.com/post/bachman-decoder-install-12203273. Looking at the last one, is it possible that the LM could actually fit?

Why do all manufacturers make such poor chassis? My poor advice would be if you have the skills to fabricate a new chassis from brass stock or sell the Bachmann and buy an Atlas.

- Tim

[Coupe633]

Tim, thank you for the reply and the links to mrhmag. I will note that there is not two screws holding the middle of the frame but just one. I removed the shell again to make comparisons with the photos on mrhmag and decided to take the light board out of the top of the shell to see how much room I would have to shave off the frame so I put in an unused LM3 I had and to my surprise I could get the shell back on the frame without taking any material off the frame. This will work. While I don't like Bachmann's design on their locomotives this is certainly doable.  I am not sure if Ring has a sound for a Fairbanks Morse Trainmaster, but it would be ashamed to not put a speaker in this model too. I like the Scale Sound Systems, but they do not have one for this particular model yet, simple measurements will get the right fit though. I still will have to grind out some of the frame in order to get the depth I need for a sizeable speaker baffle to sit in there but it would not need to interfere with that middle screw, thus keeping the frame integrity. It may be some months before I get to this one as there are several locomotives in line ahead of this FM H16-44 for Railpro conversions, I will document this and post the photos here.

[faithie999]

if you don't have room for your preferred speaker, i have had good luck with iPhone 7 speakers.  i'm sure the fidelity isn't as good as the Scale Sounds but it's pretty thin and might fit your space.
they are cheap on ebay so might be worth buying one to try it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/202540144079?_skw=iphone+7+speaker&itmmeta=01JMB6JQ5E4A9ZNXECGAJ03PGR&hash=item2f285555cf:g:nDsAAOSwPVFcFwn7&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eFsG0HwiaUZJoOaQQGmeo3euhUX2zKzt%2BsPDPZF8Mvft3Zpn2XOuHFqGcPsTU59NnmgEOXOjSzyigxHJuyNzD1k8%2BMQOi3lzrQzgjSYDmfqn7WQvTdkvvMEckTErPFoWHMP4PzYC1DQm%2Fhg67AxXY3iJdhv5%2BWigrUQGAR4aO6gl%2BwE9fy%2BSM1MwKIeFKE6mtN8AmgLcAvqvbJSudegZue3GlNbrhI5R7D0dCpgysbNzJGV5mWG2cwFX0S64N9YmVnmMgBGrnigzU0I7yd0NMbkNGu1ALeuJXNLGyptAruUw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR4zzyuaiZQ

in the picture you will see 2 copper springy-like contacts near one end of the speaker.  just solder the speaker output of the LM to those contacts.