RailPro > RailPro Specific Help & Discussion
Frog Juicers compatible with RailPro?
yvesmary:
Hi JJ
I've built all my turnouts using the Fast Tracks system with the isolated frog. I use to use the HexFrog Juicers with my Tortoises when I had DCC but now that I'm totally RailPro they won't work.
The easy solution is to use the Tortoise itself with its 8 connectors. #1 and #8 is powered from a wallwart bus. The isolated frog is powered to #4. Then #2 and #3 from the track feeders -- if the polarity is wrong reverse #2 and #3. You can also power the frog from #5 and use #6 and #7 for the feeders. Now when you throw the Tortoise the frog has the correct polarity.
There are places where I have to use Caboose Industries ground throws. For those turnouts I power the frogs with a SPDT switch. When I throw the turnout I then I flip the toggle on the switch to reverse polarity.
Yves in Alberta
JJ Crooke:
Hi everyone,
In my quest to find a replacement for the Tam Valley's Frog Juicer that will work with the PWR-56, I am considering testing the Ane Model SmartFrog v5. The power input for the SmartFrog is 12V DC with a max current of 4 amps. In another thread, it was mentioned that the power output for the PWR-56 is 14.2V regulated DC and output current of 4 amps. I've also read somewhere else that you can simply power the SmartFrog in DCC by hooking the unit to the layout bus, but we all know that the PWR-56 is different than your typical DCC power supply. I have a basic understanding of wiring a layout but when it comes to voltage and amps, I need help from someone who knows this stuff.
So my question is: can I power the SmartFrog (@ 12V DC, 4 amps) using my layout bus (powered by the PWR-56 @ 14.2V DC, 4 amps) without damaging the unit? I'm not sure if there is a safe "tolerance" range for voltage or if the amperage is what really matters in this case. If the SmartFrog is not an option, then I'll have no other choice than to consider a hand thrown solution such as Bill's Simple Switch Machine.
http://www.anemodel.com/products_content.aspx?id=32
Thanks,
Joel
Alan:
That's a rough web site to read. If I understand correctly you also need SmartSwitch (or possibly some other switch input) to make the SmartFrog work. I don't see where it defines "automatic".
The amperage is maximum for the unit so no worries there.
I might add, there is a big ole honkin' relay sitting in the middle of the board. That means it will be slower to actuate (more wheel sparks) than an all electronic device.
JJ Crooke:
Previous versions of the SmartFrog needed the SmartSwitch to work but the latest version (v5) can work by itself, hence the need for 12V DC power.
Dean:
I'm confused. Why all the fuss with the switch frog? My layout is almost 20 years old. I have a combination of code 100 and code 83 switches. Some are 'DCC friendly', some are not. All my switches are Shinohara or Walthers/Shinohara.
I have only tried to modify one switch according to an article on the internet to make it DCC friendly. When done, all I did was ruin a perfectly good $75.00 double crossover. To get the double cross overs on my layout to work with DCC, all I do is throw all 4 switches at the same time. All are either straight through or crossing over. No shorts, no stalling, no sparks.
My power routing switches were installed with only the lead end (where the points are) connected to the rails. The main and diverging routes were not. It was just a matter of putting feeders on tracks after the switch, which should be done anyway.
Again, what's all the fuss?
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