RailPro > RailPro Specific Help & Discussion

EURIKA!! Motor does not function when setting loco motor full load current

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carpediem4570:
I have a second 2-8-2 that is new in the box.

I want to pull it apart and check the worm gear that turns the cog on the drive axle to move the wheels.  It appears this is quite stiff to turn and that might be why the motor can’t turn the worm gear.

Kind regards,
Max

carpediem4570:
Well, this certainly has been an adventure.

I pulled the cover off the worm gear and cleaned out all the old grease and it is moving much better.

The worm gear and the two wheel gears are plastic.  Do I need to regrade them, oil them or leave them dry?

The wheel axle have no bearings and ride in a plastic slot.  The axles are brass.  Do these Ned to be greased, oiled or left dry.

Thank you in advance for the help.

gregeusa:
I do Z scale and G scale... not an expert on HO mechanicals... sorry..

will tell you that you do need lubrication... I use oil on bearings, and jel grease on gears...

snowdog:
Hi Max,

It sounds like your motor is pulling to much current and the safety feature of the module has kicked in to prevent damage. If you remove power, the module will reset...A common mistake in converting to dcc or similar function is that people believe the conversion will help the loco run better (which it will if the loco runs good as a DC unit) What you are describing is a case of having something in the drive system bound-up.You should tear the loco apart and check that your gears mesh well, the motor spins freely and all the drive mechanisms run smoothly. ENSURE the loco runs smoothly on DC before converting to RailPro. Once that is done, you should have no troubles with the RailPro system. (we are here to help if you do).

When you're done getting the drive system working, oil the bearings, grease the gears.  ONLY USE A LUBRICANT INTENDED FOR MODELS!!!

Make sure it's synthetic or your loco could be ruined (ask me how I know).

Good luck

gregeusa:
your lubricants don't really need to be synthetic, they need "plastic safe" on them... lubricants for our hobby are clearly marked and marketed as such.

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