Pre DC ready locomotives

[Dave]

I have 4 pre DC ready diesels.  Two are Atlas Classics and 2 are Athearn.

How does this work in converting them to Railpro?  The Atlas have PC boards and Athearn.  Do I have to remove these boards and replace with a Wiring harness?

Should I be buying one of these DDC introduction books to understand the mechanics of these conversions?

thanks for your advice.

David

[Alan]

Your situation sounds similar to my experience with older Atlas locomotives. They had early DCC boards installed. One even had a very old 14 speed step board. The original wires connected to the boards with individual clips. I un-clipped the wires, removed the boards, and connected the loco internal wiring to a standard DCC 9 pin plug which fits the LM2 module. Very easy to do.

[EDIT] Sorry. I misinterpreted your message. I was thinking of DCC ready or old DCC applications. For a conventional DC locomotive it is equally simple as others have commented. Pre-DCC locos often have the motor electrically connected to the frame. Insulate the motor from the frame if it is not already. Atlas uses a 2mm screw to attach the motor to the frame. Replace it with a nylon screw. I use these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Free-Shipping-100pcs-M2x4mm-Nylon-screws-round-Phillips-pan-head-screws-Black-/182290357239?hash=item2a715a1bf7:g:U84AAOSw4shX5LFU. Wires coming from the motor go to the orange and gray wires. Wires coming from the trucks go to red and black wires. Polarity doesn't matter. 

[KPack]

Hi David, welcome to the forum.

Converting old DC-only locomotives is not difficult, but does take time.  You do not need to buy a book.  You'll find somehelpful resources on Youtube that will walk you through the conversion process.  If you can't find any there, I may take the time to make up a video showing how it's done.  Really all it involves is taking a 9-pin harness and matching the wires up to where the go (they are color-coded and the Railpro instructions has a diagram showing what goes where).  Remove the factory board, solder the wires from the harness to the corresponding wires on the locomotive and you're done. 

-Kevin

[hirailer]

I have a whole  fleet of Atlas/Roco locomotives converted to RailPro. Wiring these is not very difficult, just take your time and make good wire connections. If you are soldering for the first time, practice up on some scrap wire first. I use 0.8mm 60/40 solder and a 15/30 Watt soldering pencil. Most of my wire soldering is done on the 15W setting. The trick is to get in and make the connection and get out quickly. Excessive heat can damage components. You can get Kapton tape at Amazon, I got a roll for less than $10.00 which will last me for at least 150 years. Kapton tape is desirable to secure modules and speakers because it will withstand higher temperatures and leaves no residue when removed.

If you have  Ahearn Blue box locos, the wiring is a little different and the most important thing is to electrically isolate the motor from the frame. This is good way to cook a module or decoder if you don't do this.

I believe Bill at Precision Design has nine pin harnesses. I bought a bunch of Digitrax DHWH harnesses a long time ago and I still have a bunch left. He also has iphone S4 speakers which are very good.

Mel

[nodcc4me]

All good points there Dave. Also, use heat shrink tubing on the solder connections rather than electrical tape. It is much neater and easier to use. Just don't forget to slip the tubing over one of the wires before soldering. I have done that on more than one occasion. 

[Blueleader]

First time posting so Hello to fellow members. I have a question regarding the LMS3 and the included 6pin connector vs using a 9 pin connector to convert a DC engine...Is there an advantage in using one over the other? Wait I think I answered my own question. The 9 pin is for input and the 6 pin is for output from the LM right?

Eric

[Alan]

You need both if using sound. Motor and rail voltage leads are on the 9 pin, speaker is on the 6 pin. Lighting is on both.

[Blueleader]

Thanks for the info Alan. It's clear in my head now so I won't have any trouble converting a couple of old DC's. I have also started changing out all of my rolling stock to metal wheels and axles from WalthersProto and Kadee couplers. I have never used the Kadee's before and what an amazingly easy difference they make.

You need both if using sound. Motor and rail voltage leads are on the 9 pin, speaker is on the 6 pin. Lighting is on both.