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9 Pin Plug Removal Techniques

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G8B4Life:
I haven't had a problem with the grab-all-wires wiggle method yet but do remember that the quality, or should I say beefiness of the harness wires plays a big part in it. I use DigiTrax's 9 pin harnesses and they have beefy wires compared to say the 9 pin harness from TCS which are quite thin. Also the termination method probably plays a part as well, the individual crimped wires in the DigiTrax harness probably give more tension strength compared to the cheaper IDC (insulation displacement connection) of some other brands of harness. For DCC ready and installed locos my guess is that they will have IDC 9 pin plugs; it's cheaper.


--- Quote from: William Brillinger on November 09, 2017, 09:34:34 AM ---When I am ready to commit to lighting, I plan on hardwiring all of my units using a method that Lee Nicholas suggested to me.

Lee uses pieces of circuit board material as solder locations attached to his own styrene board. (Brilliant!!)

--- End quote ---

I mentioned this method a couple of weeks ago in Jeff Schultz's P2K GP9 thread (https://rpug.pdc.ca/index.php/topic,478.msg3717.html#msg3717). It's a good method that I have used before.

- Tim

Alan:
I believe the tightness is caused by the pin contacts and receivers rather than the nylon housing. My control panels use 16 pin versions of the same JST connectors used on LMs. The 16 pin versions are a bear to remove. If you insert a male housing without pin connectors into a female housing it will simply fall out when you turn it over. Doubt lubricating the housing is going to do more than make them slippery to grasp and more difficult to remove. I use a pair of very small flat blade screwdrivers, one under each end, to gently lift the plug enough to grip it with my fingers.

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