RailPro > RailPro Specific Help & Discussion

New user, poor experience

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The_Dave:
So....very recent convert to RP. I’m using it in conjunction with my NCE power cab.

Pro’s:
Awesome interface/color display.
Easy programming.
Cool features and functions
Wireless!

Cons:
My loco’s do not run anywhere as good as my native DCC units.
Constant issues over turnouts, power drops/shorts.
Running experience is poor at best.

As much as I love the idea of RP, so far I’m not feeling it’s worth it. Maybe RP demands absolutely perfect (and I mean perfect!) track work and has zero tolerance for anything less. I know I could run the same locos I’ve converted all day long on DCC and have ZERO issues.

I’m sure I’ve done something to make my own trouble but I’ve got no idea what it might be.

Frustrated!

G8B4Life:
Welcome Dave.

We are here to help if we can but some details on your installs will help us.

What have you installed RP in?

Did you keep the factory mother boards or do clean "hardwire" installs?

Those two questions are good starters; if you kept them some factory mother boards contain an RF suppression circuit and RP usually does not like these leading to very poor performance (it seems most DCC decoders are not too fazed by RF suppression circuits but RP is). I think most users here do clean hardwire installs as a matter of course but I'm sure other will chime in also on the install part.

- Tim

nodcc4me:
RailPro doesn't demand perfect track, but it is more sensitive to dirty track and wheels, switch frogs, and low voltage in spots. If you are running on DCC power, it will make the track dirty much more than RailPro and that will transfer to your locomotive wheels. Some DCC equipped locomotives come with keep-alive capacitors from the factory, which will help them to overcome the track problems with DCC. If you have RP equipped locomotives that don't run well, here are some things you can try:
1. Clean your track and wheels often.
2. Check your layout for low voltage areas and add power to those areas.
3. Install keep-alive capacitors in problem locomotives. Although switch frogs can cause problems for some locomotives,  and there are remedies, it is probably easier to install keep-alives than to mess with the switches.
4. If you don't have a lot of DCC locomotives, switch your power supply to RP and add RP modules to your locomotives.

The RP system is truly superior to antiquated DCC in every way.

William Brillinger:
And on that note, choose the right product for track cleaning... The old standard of Rubbing Alcohol is actually a terrible choice. Since I switched to mineral spirits, things are much better on my layout.

In depth info:
https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/mrh2019-05/publishers-musings
https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/magazine/running-extra/2020-02/publishers-welcome

The_Dave:
Good stuff guys. I’ll answer the questions first then onto some observations/thoughts.

The loco’s in question are 3 Kato  SD40-2’s. I’ve done a clean hardwire installation with all wires soldered and shrink wrapped. Full LED conversion. Install has sound too. LM-3S Receiver.

Track is code 83 flex. All joints soldered. Feeders approximately every 3-4 feet.

Using in conjunction with a NCE DCC Powercab.

Turnouts are Atlas.

Track is exceedingly clean.

Thoughts:

My issues are only where the loco crosses a turnout. Most of the time if my speed is up I can roll right through no issue, not always but mostly. Moving through at a crawl is not so great, I have issues every time. I believe I’m shorting between the flanges and the point rails. I’m not 100% positive but I’m pretty dang sure.

I am interested in possibly installing a KA. I read somewhere that the LM-3 Receiver is pre-wired to install a kA without the need for a bridge rectifier. Could someone point me in the direction of a Wiring diagram for this?

Thanks!

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