Post by: CPRail on April 05, 2017, 11:27:09 AM
Of course, I'd rather not be the pioneer here...
Post by: KPack on April 05, 2017, 02:55:23 PM
Post by: jimw on April 05, 2017, 09:13:01 PM
Jim W
Post by: Josephbw on April 06, 2017, 09:58:57 AM
Joe
Post by: Josephbw on April 06, 2017, 12:56:11 PM
Hi Ian,
I did a Walthers PK1000 RS-2, which should be about the same as yours. Well I tried to attach some pictures, but I got a message that I am not allowed to view that attachment.
Basically what I did was leave the light module in, wired to it, then mounted my LM over the tower behind the front truck. Then I mounted a Digitrax SP 10188 10mm x 18mm oval speaker on the bottom of the light module over the rear truck, using double sided tape. It's not as loud as the I Phone speaker, but you can hear it without straining.
When I get more time after supper, I'll try again to upload the pictures, after I figure out how to turn them right side up. Every way I tried to change the orientation I got the controls greyed out and unavailable. I guess that's what I get for using a windows phone. ::)
Here is the way I did the LM installation.
And here is the speaker mounted under the light board.
As I sat here looking at the first picture, I think if I removed the light board, there would be room for an I phone speaker. If I had one back when I did this engine, I probably would have installed it. Maybe I'll change it out some day. ;D
Post by: Lee Nicholas on April 08, 2017, 07:57:32 AM
Lee
Post by: Antoine L. on April 21, 2017, 01:47:32 PM
I highly recommend going for the DCC ready version of anything which will most likely have space to fit the LMs.
Antoine
Post by: Alan on April 22, 2017, 07:19:11 AM
Quote
I had to turn the flywheel down at one end to get the module in.
Same here. Had to remove about 0.060" from the rear flywheel. Also had to remove the LM electronics from its plastic case. Mounted the guts in top of hood (at cab end) with tiny styrene strips. Board bottom protected with Kapton.
Post by: CPRail on April 23, 2017, 02:41:22 PM
Stay Tuned.
Post by: CPRail on May 13, 2017, 10:36:05 PM
Picture 1 is the OEM S3 chassis.
(http://[attachment id=1 msg=2876][/attachment])
Picture 2 is the OEM S3 chassis with the 8 pin plug dummy board removed. Looks like a LM-3S will fit with some chassis mods.
(http://[attachment id=2 msg=2876][/attachment])
Post by: CPRail on May 13, 2017, 10:36:52 PM
(http://[attachment id=1 msg=2877][/attachment])
Picture 4 is the chassis with the location for a KA-3. Add in a bridge rectifier (they are teeny), and I might be able to squeeze in a cut down iPhone 4 speaker...
(http://[attachment id=1 msg=2877][/attachment])
Thoughts from the experts? Am I headed in the right direction?
Post by: CPRail on May 13, 2017, 10:37:47 PM
(http://[attachment id=1 msg=2878][/attachment])
Post by: CPRail on December 27, 2017, 10:23:31 PM
Thought I had this install in the bag (see the Install in a P2K S-3 thread for my plan). As I'm off during the holidays, I figured here's my chance to work on it.
I made the cuts/grinding as planned. Things were going well, when I found out that the K-A wasn't going to fit and that the LM-3S was bumping up against one of the weight mounting screws. No biggie, just ground out a notch for the LM-3S plugs to squeeze past the screw and do some grinding to open up some space for a sugar-cube and things should fit - especially if I hard wire everything to the 9 pin plug. K-A TBD, but should be able to do something.
Then I got cocky... Figuring I'd need some extra play, I cut slots in the weight to open up the holes where the wires pass through the weights. All going well until I cut out the last slot and the weight snapped where I removed material for the sugar cube.
Pause, listen to hockey game, don't throw unit across room...
Figuring I'd have to make some kind of mount out of styrene, I pulled the weight and started fiddling to see how everything would fit. Turns out the LM-3S is just a wee bit too wide to fit nicely in the hood. Argh!
I know some of the experts here have unwrapped a LM. What does that gain me? Can I spread pieces around? Other than pooching the warranty, what other issues might doing this cause?
Those P2K S3s are light to start with, so I'd like to add weight if I could in the install.
Thoughts, comments, rude remarks?
Post by: G8B4Life on December 28, 2017, 05:20:35 AM
I know some of the experts here have unwrapped a LM. What does that gain me? Can I spread pieces around? Other than pooching the warranty, what other issues might doing this cause?
Removing the plastic case gains you (read removes) about 1mm of of width. That 1mm might just be enough to fit the LM into the hood. You'd want to wrap the now exposed board with Kapton tape like Alan did. I wouldn't recommend heat shrinking it unless you has access to some good equipment for doing so.
No, you can't "spread around" the parts on the board.
Quote
Those P2K S3s are light to start with, so I'd like to add weight if I could in the install.
I know this isn't exactly what you asked but does the top weight keep the motor in (secured in place) at all? If not I'd be inclined to toss it. It'd be providing very little weight value to the model so if you did away with it you could possibly secure the LM to the motor directly (or make a small styrene shelf) and then you might have room in the shell for something heavier than the diecast weight.
If you'd really like something heavier, you could always go the way of Jim FitzGerald and his "Cotton Brute"'s :D Google that one if your not familiar with it.
- Tim
Post by: William Brillinger on December 28, 2017, 06:57:15 AM
Looking at Alan's unwrapped LM-2 I'd say you can gain more than just the space.
(http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/LKandO/100_6436.JPG)
(http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/LKandO/100_6435.JPG)
( Images from http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/18968 )
with some surgery to the plugs, you can solder directly to the board and gain some length and height too.
Post by: William Brillinger on December 28, 2017, 07:04:51 AM
https://www.rona.ca/en/steel-epoxy-putty-01105002
You can also get tungsten putty that can be molded into shape to add weight too.
Toad Hall might have it, they use it for pinewood derby cars.
Post by: G8B4Life on December 28, 2017, 07:12:01 AM
Perhaps Alan can chime in, I wonder if the temp sensing works properly without the unit be contained in the case?
- Tim
Post by: CPRail on December 28, 2017, 10:09:04 AM
As far as I can tell the factory weight is just that, weight.
Stay tuned for further attempts!
Post by: Alan on December 29, 2017, 06:51:25 PM
Interesting, the LM-2S's (and 3S's) I have don't have what looks like a shield over the RF circuit board as Alans does. Wonder why it was dispensed with?
Perhaps Alan can chime in, I wonder if the temp sensing works properly without the unit be contained in the case?
- Tim
I can't say for sure but I believe the shield is for RF, not a heat sink. My unwrapped LM installation functions no differently than any of my other installations. It should be noted the unwrapped unit is in a switcher that is never exposed to heavy loads, high speeds, grades, or other conditions that would induce a lot of heat in the motor or module. It spends its time shuffling cars in a flat yard. In fact, it has very little run time on it. My layout has been down for quite some time. I can't power it up due to myriad of exposed wire connections awaiting control panel installation. See the dangling bundle of labeled wires? There are 16 of those bundles around the layout. A whole lot of short circuit possibilities if I hit the power button now.
Post by: CPRail on December 31, 2017, 09:42:53 PM
I'm sorry, but I don't have pictures. After fighting with the shell 5 times to get everything in, I'm not opening the beast up again unless I really have to!
General gist:
1. Toss the weight.
2. Toss the P2K 8 pin plug, you'll be hard-wiring this bad boy.
3. Remove a teeny bit of the thickness from the back of the side numberboards - rotary cutter in a dremel does this right quick.
4. Cut a piece of .030 styrene the width of the RP Module, but not the full length. This will be your support for the RP module. Screw it into the upright frame post at the nose and tape the orange wire to the underside of the styrene. Orange wire grounds to frame through the screw as per factory setup.
5. Tape RP module to the styrene, with the 6 pin plug to the front of the unit, just clearing the screw. Speaker wires and K-A wire (2 brown, 1 yellow) are taped to the top of the module, between the module and shell.
6. Make all your wiring connections.
7. Double-sided tape the Sugar Cube (11 x 15) speaker to the shell above the rear flywheel. Speaker fires upward. I've drilled out the stack, so this helps let the sound out.
8. Double-sided tape the K-A (I used a KA4) to the shell behind the speaker.
9. Remove portion of firewall of interior to clear K-A.
10. Put everything back together and pray you don't have a wire rubbing in the wrong spot (ask me how I know this...)
11. Load sounds and do the motor setting. For some reason, I had to tell the LM-3S that the motor polarity was reversed. Whatever...
12. Enjoy!!
I didn't tempt fate and try to install working lights. Unit has MV Lenses front and rear. One day, if I get brave or stupid I may try to add working lights, but I'm happy with her just as she is. All she needs now is a Alco 539T Ultimate sound file. I'm content with what the 539T file for the time being.
FYI: This is not a quick conversion. Not counting all the planning time and false starts trying to save the weight, this took me half the afternoon, plus a whole NHL hockey game to do. Might be a little less time if my team wasn't smothering the other team. 5-0 Win!!