RailPro User Group
RailPro => RailPro Specific Help & Discussion => Topic started by: Boomer68 on December 02, 2021, 01:17:54 AM
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I have a locomotive which was running well and came to a sudden stop. I got an Exclamation mark fault indicator, checked and found no information on a problem. I took the locomotive off the track and used another for the remainder of the day. After getting home I reconnected the HC to it and all of the sounds work. The locomotive will not move forward or backward. I checked the wiring in the tender and all the connections are good. Does anyone have any ideas?
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Contact Ring by phone for a possible warranty replacement or repair.
Here is the contact info: (219) 322-0279 Mon - Fri 9am to 5pm Central Time
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if it were me, before contacting Ring, I would de-solder the motor wiring from the LM, and then with a pair of alligator clip jumper cables, attach the motor wiring to the output of your 15v power supply to make sure the motor is ok.
having said that, I have been very pleased on a couple of occasions with Ring's approach to warranty replacement/repair.
Ken
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A bit early I guess, but curious if there has been any resolution yet. I have the same problem occurring a week or two ago. A consist of three locos was not moving as I thought it should. After unMUing the locos, one would not move but all of the lights and sounds work including the prime mover every 15%.
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This sounds like the same problem that I had back in May.
https://rpug.pdc.ca/index.php/topic,1228.15.html
Spoiler Alert: Despite all the help that I got on this forum, the problem was never solved.
Cliff Notes version:
Motor suddenly stopped while I was watching loco. It never ran again. Lights and sounds still run.
Tested motor with 9 volt battery on dead track. Motor and gears ran smoothly.
Removed LM-3. Replaced it with new LM3. Installed files. Motor still does not run. Lights and sounds still do.
Partially disassembled loco. Probed wires, junctions and pick-ups. It all looked good to me.
Gave up and moved to other aspects of model railroading.
Could this be a new variety of Covid? One that attacks model locomotives?
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I had this exact problem with one of my engines.
The problem was that a motor shorted. Out of nowhere.
But I replaced the motor and it was all good to go.
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I had an older Stewart/Kato motor die on me shortly after installing an LM3 and doing a successful current test. It was suggested that the insulation on the windings had deteriorated. For $10 I got a new motor from Bowser and all was right with the world.
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A bit early I guess, but curious if there has been any resolution yet. I have the same problem occurring a week or two ago. A consist of three locos was not moving as I thought it should. After unMUing the locos, one would not move but all of the lights and sounds work including the prime mover every 15%.
have you had a chance to check the motor in the failed loco?
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I haven’t had a chance to try more yet. When I do I will post more.
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I had this exact problem with one of my engines.
The problem was that a motor shorted. Out of nowhere.
But I replaced the motor and it was all good to go.
In my case, the motor would run if attached to a 9-volt battery. It appears that my short is buried somwhere inside the loco.
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In my case, the motor would run if attached to a 9-volt battery. It appears that my short is buried somwhere inside the loco.
If the motor draws too much current for whatever reason, the LM motor drive circuit will shutdown whereas a 9V battery would not. The battery will continue supplying current until it is dead even if it is doing so through a direct short. That might explain why your motor works on a battery but not on an LM.
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Good to know. Thanks, Alan.
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faithie999,
What is the easiest way to check the motor? I did not do the LM install.
Thanks,
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I would use a multimeter and check for resistance on each contact of the motor.
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I had connected the LM3S using the 8 pin to 9 pin wiring. I disconnected the 8 pin and replaced the original Proto 2000 PC board and the motor runs. Next step?
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Sounds like the harness is faulty (broken wire) or not wired correctly. Pain in the butt for sure but you'll need to check the harness with a multimeter to see if you get continuity and the pins are wired to the correct pins on each end of the harness.
- Tim
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I think I'll just rewire the harnesses.