RailPro User Group
RailPro => Finished RailPro Installation Examples => Topic started by: cnw4621 on May 25, 2018, 07:52:14 PM
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I’ve installed RailPro in about two dozen locos now, but I just picked up an older Walthers SW1, don’t see how I can fit an LM3 into it. I’m rapidly approaching the point where that switcher May be tethered permantly to a boxcar, because I don’t see it happening otherwise. Any suggestions?
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I have a friend who just did and SW1 for DCC - A LOT of milling was involved.
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Is there weight that can be shaved down? It seems like most of the Proto locomotives have a huge weight in there. A mill would be required for that, and lots of patience, but it can be done.
The other option is to try and squeeze it in the roof of the cab. Not sure how successful that would be though....don't have a SW1 in front of me to look at.
-Kevin
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Instead of a boxcar, how about a cow and calf switcher.
https://www.google.com/search?q=switcher+cow+and+calf&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi5mr-IzaPbAhXItVkKHU0zBeAQsAQIPQ&biw=1366&bih=615 (https://www.google.com/search?q=switcher+cow+and+calf&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi5mr-IzaPbAhXItVkKHU0zBeAQsAQIPQ&biw=1366&bih=615)
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No dice, the Monon didn’t have calves.
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Did they have slugs? Or maybe use a dummy switcher?
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The SW1 I am modeling did not have MU. Lol
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Are the LM-1/2 physically smaller than an LM-3?
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The LM 1 is about twice as big, and the 2 and 3 are physically the same size.
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If I can get a LM-3S, a sugar cube speaker and a KA-4 in a P2K S3, you can do a SW1.
I had to remove all of the extra weight, and cut out part of the cab interior to get it to fit, but I got it all in there. It's tight!
Still moves 12-15 cars through my curvy yard lead. Much more and she gets cranky. I'm thinking of adding some moldeable lead to various visible nooks and crannies (like behind the steps, etc.) to add a little bit more weight.
There are no pictures (I'm not ripping it apart after I got it all to fit!), but there is a description in the RPUG files.
Can't wait to attempt the Rapido SW1200RS and GMD-1s...I hear the SW1200RS are not designed to be opened up easily.
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I haven't looked inside the Walthers SW1, but this is a Kato NW2 I did about 3 years ago. It has no sound but it gives an idea how much milling I had to do to the split frame. I even had to trim the inside of the shell near the hood sides with a rotary cutter a bit even after all this to get the shell to fit down without forcing it on.
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File down the lead weight, I did a 70 Ton switcher the same way. It worked maintaining the original control board cause it held the front/rear headlights in place. Also I used a short section of drinking straws and stuffed the extra wires inside for neatness.