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Atlas Master GP38

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ON28:
The BAR got the second-ever delivery of GP38s from EMD in 1967, trading in its E7s on the order. The 84 shown here was delivered in solid blue but was later painted into the tri-color scheme. It was upgraded to a GP38-3 and renumbered to 365 in the BAR's final blue, gray and yellow before being sold to lessor Webb Asset Management.

New install, an LM-3S and Keep-Alive for this very nice Atlas loco. First I remotered as the original motor was a poor performer. Atlas sent me a new motor for nothing, to test out. I modified the original motor mounts and glued the new motor to them with Amazing Goop, so it's removable. I damaged the universals removing the flywheels so substituted 1 mm diameter food grade silicone tubing. I had to trim the rear overhanging portion of the front weight to clear the KA, not ideal since this loco isn't weighty to start with.

I made a .040 styrene tray for the components and CA'd a styrene support to the motor face while adding double-stick foam to the motor itself, to support the tray. As with my Front Range Geep, I added three strips of copper beading tape to the tray, one each for the motor pickups and one for the common circuit. Cuts down on the tangle of wires and saves space. The truck pickup wires and motor wires are threaded through holes in the tray, for neatness. I added YeloGlo LEDs from Miniatronics front and rear. I'll have to remove a portion of the rear weight when I fit a speaker.

Now, the loco showed some slight hesitation in testing. I discovered that one wheelset was out of square so replaced it. I also turned the max speed down to about 75%, which further helped. I should probably seal the light leaks around the numberboards, too. It needs a bell mounted on the long hood, horns moved, new MU stands, and the plow removed. Oops, and the broom to clear switches. Other than that, my biggest issue was handling the Kapton tape, if anyone has tips for that...






   

Espeelark:
That looks like a very clean install there ON28!
I'd be interested in some close-up photos of your styrene support with copper beading tape and the wires attached to it. Sounds like something that I might avail myself of. I've always struggled somewhat getting the wires cut down to reasonable lengths to keep them manageable within the shell.
Also, do you know what "color" (degrees Kelvin) those YeloGlo LEDs are that you use for the headlights? I continue to try to find bright white ones that are a tad on the golden side. Some of the ones I've used have just a bit too much blue to them.

ON28:
Thank you! I post these so it might help someone else.

I can't speak to the temperature of the LEDs, but maybe contact Miniatronics? I tried painting LEDs yellow in the past to get a nice glow, but that's a bit hit or miss. Here's my .040 styrene platform with copper tape, and holes drilled for truck wires (outside) and motor wires (inside). Also the platform installed with support piece CA'd to front of motor. Narrow strip of foam tape is barely visible between styrene and motor. The black truck wire coming up through the styrene and soldered to the copper tape, and the red motor wire soldered to the copper tape, I tin all wires, use a dab of paste flux and a quick touch with the iron.

Espeelark:
That's good stuff there IN28!
Thank you!

faithie999:
great work!  apologies if you mentioned this earlier, but what is the source for the copper tape?
thanks
ken

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