Loco Stopped. “Motor Over Peak Current”

[nodcc4me]

The locomotive may run, but if the default maximum current is lower than the actual current draw it may not run at all. Also, you would not be able to synchronize locomotives in consist very well. Ring strongly recommends setting the maximum current as soon as the LM is installed.

[ON28]

What is the default max current?

[nodcc4me]

I'm not positive, but I believe it is about 250mA, which is enough to perform the automatic setting for the particular locomotive. I suggested checking the max current setting because you are  experiencing the problem as soon as you apply throttle. You can run the auto-set multiple times if you think it is setting the max too low. Also, it can also be set manually, if necessary.

[ON28]

Thanks for that. Funny thing, I recently auto re-set the max current on my Atlas GP-7, and it reset from 550mA to 650mA. Is it best to re-set with start-stop, etc., at their original factory settings? I installed the LMS-3 probably two-plus years ago, so it's possible the drive train needs a cleaning. Track and wheels were clean.

[nodcc4me]

You can set it using a start/stop technique. I have had to do that only once on an old locomotive. A better way is to use the auto setting and if you get the overload message, raise it slightly until you no longer get that error. If you have to go way over the auto setting and are still getting the message then there is another problem.

[MtRR75]

Update by Original Poster

I’ve been away from trains for a while (Family life and 2 other hobbies.).
See Posts #10 and &11 for where I stood before the hiatus.

Updates

(1) Software test.
(a) I deleted and reloaded the Heavy Steam ULT – Still have “Current Overloaded”.
(b) Then, deleted the Heavy Steam ULT and replaced it with the old Heavy Steam -- Still have “Current Overloaded”.  So the software is not the problem.

(2) Hardware test
(a) I bought a new LC-3S (that I needed for an upcoming conversion).  I unplugged the old and plugged the new.
(b) Found the product, then checked the “Full Load Current” setting.  Default setting was 200mA.
(c) Ran load test.  Wheels only spun for PART of one revolution.  Got a message that said “O mA”.   Checked “Full Load Current”setting.  Still at 200mA (default).
(d) Re-ran load test.  Wheels did not move.  Got “Test Failed.”  Checked “Full Load Current” setting.  Still at 200mA (default).
(e) Tried to run the loco (turned speed knob).  Loco did not move.  Got “Current Overload” message.  As usual for THIS problem, the headlight and sound functions on the HC-2 still worked.  So apparently the LM is not the problem.

As G8B4Life said earlier:  QUOTE: 
Going straight to overload does kinda indicate that there is a path of low resistance from one motor output to the other motor output external to the motor, or there is a fault with the motor that is causing it to draw much more current than before, triggering the LM's overload because it's expecting no more than 220mA.
END QUOTE

The way that this locomotive overloaded and suddenly stopped while travelling at moderate speed on straight track – and has never run since – tends to support the idea that something broke somewhere, or something tiny and partly conductive shifted where it causes problems. 

During all of this the entire loco has been gently flipped over on its back (in a foam cradle) several times, and the loco and the tender shells removed.  So anything loose should have fallen out.

I am starting to wonder if this loco is worth all the trouble.

Any other ideas???

[nodcc4me]

Could there be a short in the harness between the motor lead connectors? Disconnect one of the motor leads from the harness and connect a 9v battery to those leads. If the motor and wheels turn freely then there is a short in the harness or connector. If they don’t turn freely then the motor itself must be shorted. You can use a DC power pak instead of a battery or just use jumper wires to your rails, but a battery is easier.

[Gibs]

I'm betting on there being a resistive short some where say between the motor and the chassis or from a pinched wire or some bad soldering with a possible stray strand of copper sticking out and touching somewhere. Look for anything out of the ordinary, run a multimeter over everything with the continuity setting on (looks like a diode symbol and a speaker symbol together) with the motor disconnected (un-solder motor from leads so all wiring can be checked UP-TO motor) and unplug the LM. If there is no short - no sound (even a resistive short will give a sound), so that leaves only a bad motor. A resistive short can even be the result of corrosion or a gunky gooie path between conductors.
If its a bad motor it could be just the brushes and the commutator are worn on a brush motor, either replace brushes and clean the commutator (clean out the gap between copper pickups on the comm) or replace the entire motor if no wear and tear is visible.

[Josephbw]

The faint click you hear on power-up is the power going to the speaker cone. I had 2 engines do the same thing yours is doing, but after sitting overnight they ran just fine the next day.

Joe

[ON28]

When I power up the layout, I listen for that speaker click as a confirmation of sorts.

[Lee Nicholas]

Remove the Keep Alive and see what happens. Unless you are using RP new PBM the Keep Alives can cause unwanted things to happen.
Lee