Speaker recommendation for Walthers Mainline SD70Ace?

[KPack]

On the topic of speakers, I installed another TB Speakers IO-2008S (https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-Band-T0-2008S-Speaker-Module-2-5-32-x-1-264-943?quantity=1) this week.  This time it was in an Athearn Genesis 2.0 Dash 9.  This is my first time working with a new Genesis unit.  Things were well laid out inside.  I had to remove the stock speaker weight, cut most of the rear weight off, and remove a good portion of the main chassis next to the rear driveshaft.  It was quite a bit of work.  But the speaker fits great (after shaving down the housing) and sounds fantastic.  Lots of rumble.  Or as much rumble as we can get from a scale model.

The picture showing everything is before I cleaned up the installation.  Everything is now nice and tidy inside, I assure you.

-Kevin

[ON28]

Another fine install, K! I don't envy the chassis surgery needed on today's modern diesel models.

[G8B4Life]

Looks good Kevin.

For those following along ESU apparently sells this same speaker as part number 50344 in their range, which is handy if you for some reason can't get from Parts Express. ESU's may be cheaper in some circumstances as well. Scale Sound Systems has a page on it that I have not fully read yet: https://www.scalesoundsystems.com/product-page/esu-tang-band-24-x-55-speaker .

- Tim

[hotrodf1]

Just installed a Scale Sounds speaker and PBM upgrading this original Life-Like Proto BL2. I've used iPhone4 speakers until now and there is no comparison. Far better bass and rumble with the 567 ULT sound file. I used a dab of Goo contact cement to secure the custom-designed speaker. I also used copper beading tape to make a "trace" on the component tray for the common (blue wire) connections. Makes for a neater job.

As others have said, nice install and great idea.  How do you insulate that common "rail" from the chassis?  Also, does shortening the wires that much cause issues when getting to the drivetrain for maint. later on?  I've been leaving some extra wire to in theory be able to take the tape off and move all the electronics out of the way a bit to allow taking the chassis weight off for access.  Obviously it doesn't look as clean with the extra wire.

I have been struggling with the "common problem" on my last two installs.  One of which is a LL P2K GP30.  Had to chop the chassis weight done a fair amount, but it came out OK.  But the copper beading would perhaps have helped.  I'll keep that in mind.  Ended up using the Ufit series speaker from SSS in the 17mm wide variety for the GP30.  Also changed over to LED lights after I immediately fried the little original bulbs. 

I also got the SD70Ace speaker from SSS and installed that in the loco I posted about originally.  They both sound pretty darn good considering.  My son just bought an Athearn RTR SD-40 with DCC and sound (we'll try to sell the DCC board), and it seems that SSS does have a deeper sound than the dual sugar cube included in the stock Athearn model (I can still run DC on the layout too, don't have DCC).  On a side note, the sound from the RailPro equipped units is much more pleasing to the ear than the stock sounds from the Athearn SD40.  They programmed some odd sounds into it when its moving.  At idle it sounds OK, but there are some strange "squawks" etc when it moves, almost sounds like a squeaky wheel.  Not really something I'd want to have on the layout all the time.  Just my opinion, maybe those sounds are there for a proto reason.

Moderator edit: removed the pictures from the quote to prevent unnecessarily downloading the same pictures several times.

[hotrodf1]

I am also somewhat baffled by speakers.  I have two Walthers Proto PA-1 locomotives.  Can anyone tell me what speaker brand and model is likely to fit in them along with a LM-3S and a PBM-2?  There are so many shapes and sizes with or without baffling that it is hard to know what to buy.  Anything that will fit and produces a reasonable sound is fine with me.

You might look at SSS in the Ufit speakers area, and just look to see what size might fit.  Might have to use your imagination, or starting trimming chassis weight etc until you can knock out an area for the speaker.  There are quite a few sizes there, something will be able to fit I'd say.  You just might have to break out the grinder.   I found a cut off wheel in a pneumatic die grinder works quickly, as do carbide cutters in the die grinder.  You can make shapes or steps or whatever is needed to fit the various items.  I used to be fairly deep into the automotive game so I happen to have quite a few tools.

[ON28]

Just installed a Scale Sounds speaker and PBM upgrading this original Life-Like Proto BL2. I've used iPhone4 speakers until now and there is no comparison. Far better bass and rumble with the 567 ULT sound file. I used a dab of Goo contact cement to secure the custom-designed speaker. I also used copper beading tape to make a "trace" on the component tray for the common (blue wire) connections. Makes for a neater job.

As others have said, nice install and great idea.  How do you insulate that common "rail" from the chassis?  Also, does shortening the wires that much cause issues when getting to the drivetrain for maint. later on?  I've been leaving some extra wire to in theory be able to take the tape off and move all the electronics out of the way a bit to allow taking the chassis weight off for access.  Obviously it doesn't look as clean with the extra wire.

For this install, the copper foil tape only runs along the plastic component tray, and does not contact the chassis. I am also careful about covering any wire-to-wire connections with shrink tubing, to prevent accidental shorts. The copper tape sold by Cir-Kit Concepts for dollhouse wiring is insulated on both sides, and looks like it's suitable for metal chassis use, though I have not tried it. See the copper foil tape thread for a link.

Moderator edit: removed the pictures from the quote to prevent unnecessarily downloading the same pictures several times.