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Topics - Dean

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1
General Discussion / CB-1
« on: September 21, 2019, 12:25:50 PM »
Does anyone know what the trip current is for the CB-1.

Thanks

2
RailPro Installations / New HC-2 install.
« on: August 30, 2019, 09:12:39 PM »
How would you add a new HC-2 to an existing system?
Thanks

3
RailPro Discussion & Help / MU just for fun.
« on: February 19, 2019, 11:50:55 PM »
I decided to MU 9 engines with 19 cars just for fun. It worked great. No scrunching, bunching or clotheslining.  The train even ran fine on a 2.5+% grade around a curve. The engines were a mix of Stewart/Kato and Atlas. The only problem was a tripped breaker while going up the 2.5% grade. Maybe I can get a video.

4
RailPro Enhancments / Using an LM-1 to control a switch.
« on: February 16, 2019, 12:04:43 AM »
I have very few powered switches. But one that I do have is in an out of the way place. I am using an NCE Snap-It to control the switch with DCC. (it's dual coil type) The Snap-It has provisions for a momentary contact pushbutton to operate the switch. Sooo... I connected the pushbutton terminals to a cheap glass relay with a 12V coil normally open contacts. To interface the glass relay with my HC-2, I used an LM-1 that I wasn't using. I connected the headlight output of the LM-1 to the coil of the relay and the LM-1 power leads to the track rails. After the HC-2 found the LM-1, I went into the setup page for the push buttons. I changed the headlight switch function from on-off to momentary contact. I made sure the brightness control was all the way up and renamed the LM-1 to 'Switch 36'. (36 is the DCC address). The only thing odd about this setup is the switch LM-1 shows up in the locomotive pages.  But it works. Pressing the headlight button on switch 36 LM-1 operates the relay which fires the Snap-it which throws the switch.

5
General Discussion / Interesting DCC uncoupling
« on: July 01, 2018, 11:31:29 PM »
How would you wire this into a RailPro decoder? Add a momentary pushbutton to the Engines page in the HC?
https://www.smart-coupler.com/

6
General Discussion / RailPro snob
« on: May 09, 2018, 08:14:39 AM »
I realized the other day, that despite having over sixty engines I could run, I only run the ones with RailPro installed. And if I have a favorite that I like to run a lot, I convert it from DCC to RailPro.
I've become a RailPro snob.   ;D

7
RailPro Discussion & Help / HC-2 pushbuttons
« on: May 03, 2018, 08:22:35 AM »
Is it possible to have a pushbutton on the HC-2 do two things? Example: Turn the front and rear lights on with one pushbutton.

8
RailPro Discussion & Help / Problem with upgrades
« on: April 30, 2018, 08:04:26 PM »
I downloaded the latest program and accessory files for my LM-3s. I updated the program and accessory files in two engines. Now the HC-2 does not see one of the engines. I tried to 'find new product' and that failed. The engine disappeared. It's no longer listed in the 'Locomotive' index.
I updated the second engine while I waited for the 30 seconds. Now the HC-2 can see this engine and indicates that is connected to it, but none of the commands work. The engine won't run nor will any of the lights work.

Any suggestions?

9
General Discussion / I've lost my mind.....
« on: April 12, 2018, 02:51:12 PM »
I was having one of those 'why not' moments. I put together a nine-engine consist. I had five engines on the front, six weighted freight cars in the middle with a total weight of slightly over four pounds, and four pusher engines. It ran great! I was amazed at how smoothly the consist ran. The consist climbed my 2% grade, with curves, with one minor problem. Near the top of the hill, the circuit breaker for the layout tripped. The circuit breaker is set for 2.5Amps. With nine engines and the accessories being powered by the DCC buss, the breaker worked as it should have.

Anybody know what is the maximum number of engines you can have in one consist? I have 26 RailPro engines. Hmm...

10
General Discussion / Slow
« on: March 30, 2018, 01:29:03 PM »
It's really been slow here on the RailPro forum. I hope it's because everyone is running their RailPro trains.

12
General Discussion / I'm hooked
« on: March 03, 2018, 11:31:17 PM »
I love my RailPro system. I run it alongside my DCC equipment. The one thing that I was not going to do was replace the DCC decoders that are already installed only because of the cost. I have almost 100 engines, most running DCC. Well, that idea went down the tubes. I have converted 3 of my engines to RailPro, throwing the DCC decoders in an old box. And I just ordered more LM-3s to convert more engines.

I'm hooked!

13
RailPro Installations / Stewart/Kato EMD F unit LM-3 install
« on: February 23, 2018, 11:29:11 AM »


I didn't have an LM-3 or harness but it is a straightforward install.
In the first picture of a stock Stewart, you can see all the components. Starting at the right you can see where the chassis has a taper to it. The tapered end of the chassis is the front. The silver tube contains the head light. The two wires for the bulb coming out of the tube wrap around the bare copper wire that runs the length of the chassis. The wires from the front truck attach to the copper wire with a slip fit connector. There is a dimple on the bottom of this connector that goes into a hole in the plastic electric board. Further back is the mounting screw for the plastic board. These screws and the plastic board are necessary as they are the brace for the upper motor mounts. Next, you will see two wide flat pieces of copper tucked under the copper wires. These are the motor leads. Further to the left is the rear plastic board screw and then the wires from the rear truck attached to the copper wires.



I am presuming that everyone knows to use shrink tubing or tape on any electrical connection that might come in contact with the chassis or other metal parts in the chassis. I removed some tape for the pictures.

You will need to remove the plastic board from the chassis. Then remove the copper wires from the board. Cut the plastic board right behind the rear mounting screw. Install the copper wires on the plastic board that still has the screw holes in it. Now you will need to bend the copper wires down right at the edge of the cut you made. The idea is to get those wires as low as possible in the chassis as you can without touching the brass flywheels or the chassis. Reinstall the plastic board into the chassis. Install the wires from the front truck to the copper wire. I usually solder these. Install the front light and connect the wires to the blue and white wires on the decoder plug. [ I remove any unused wires from the decoder plug and shorten the ones I am going to use ]  Solder the gray and orange wires to the motor leads. The orange lead goes on the right side of the motor. [ I know I screwed up and put the orange on the wrong side, but it is easy to fix with the handheld controller. ] The power leads get soldered to the copper wire, red wire on the right side. I turn the bend in the copper up so it is easier to solder. Then cover the bare copper wires leading to the rear truck. Then attach the wires from the rear truck to the copper wires. These will need to be soldered.

 

Because the LM-3 sits right on top of the copper wires, I tape a piece of aluminum foil to the bottom of the LM-3. The chassis might need a little metal removed the get the LM-3 down in the chassis. I have only had to file one chassis out of the 16 I have installed.

To add sound, you will need to find room for a speaker then route the wires to the LM-3. I have never done this.

The description is harder than actually installing an LM-3.


14
RailPro Discussion & Help / Antenna location.
« on: February 16, 2018, 04:43:59 PM »
Does anyone know where the antenna is located in an LM-3? I would like to install the LM-3 with the antenna is as far away from the power from the rails as I can. Label side or not.

15
RailPro Installations / 5 engine install/break in
« on: February 05, 2018, 03:43:20 PM »


A five engine consist of weighted cars. I have noticed a drop in stall speed current after about an hour of running. I think it might be prudent to rerun the stall speed current test after new engines have been run for awhile.

( hope the picture shows up )

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