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Messages - jimw

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RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: steel wall stud construction
« on: November 18, 2019, 07:13:39 PM »
Bill:  That is good to know.  I may need them anyway, given the size of the layout and potential to run a lot of controlled locomotives.


RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: steel wall stud construction
« on: November 18, 2019, 06:58:24 PM »
You are correct.  I expect I will need to add another wi-fi node inside the room (so my wife can find me).

I appreciate your reassurance.


RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: steel wall stud construction
« on: November 18, 2019, 06:41:35 PM »

Thank you for your kind reply. 

In short, there will be a lot of steel.  More specifics:

My attic is a huge unobstructed space with a peak 16 ft above the third-story attic floor.  The train room will be built as an insulated room-within-a-room approximately 25x35 ft, with 8ft walls, at least 5 1/2" thick. I will have to use an exterior crane or lift to bring in material (especially sheet rock, plywood, and engineered ceiling trusses.)  It's a bit daunting: I had tried to work up a good solution for a basement (dungeon) layout room, but there were too many expensive obstacles, especially in a 130 year old structure.  This option will allow for a dry climate-controlled space with few obstructions.  I had thought to lighten the load with steel wall studs (vs. 2x6 wood studs), but the prospect of signal interference makes me leery.  I have seen a number of modelers use steel construction for benchwork and for suspended ceilings, but I don't recall any mentions of more extensive use of metal such as I contemplate.


RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: steel wall stud construction
« on: November 18, 2019, 06:14:52 PM »
Sorry for the ambiguous title: Steel studs for wall construction.


RailPro Discussion & Help / steel wall stud construction
« on: November 18, 2019, 05:04:10 PM »
As I consider construction of my long-awaited train room, I would like to know whether using steel wall studs would create problems for the Railpro system (as well as cell phone and wi-fi).  Metal framing is a lot lighter (it's going up to the third floor attic, and it's going to be a big room), but it surely would be frustrating if it ruined the room's primary purpose.

Any experience or knowledgeable replies would be appreciated.


RailPro Installations / Re: I need help!
« on: March 11, 2019, 05:48:25 PM »

I believe will be able to install RailPro products.  They are a RailPro dealer as well, and I've found their pricing to be competitive.  It's been awhile, but I had a phone discussion with one of the technicians (Gary, I think) who was very helpful.  Fortunately, I did manage to complete my space-challenged installation, but I would use their services without hesitation. 

Good luck!


the only significant drawback that I find with RailPro is the small number of steam sounds available.

I have about 40 steam locomotive models of all types, but until Railpro significantly expands its sound library, I will defer ordering more LM3s.  I've been following this forum since it started, but so far the sound upgrades seem limited to diesel prime movers, bells, whistles and barking dogs.  I truly hope the
system becomes more useful to the pre-diesel modeller, because in all other aspects I consider it superior to anything else on the market.

Incidentally, when I first got my Railpro, I had to call Tim Ring for help on a weekend:  He answered the phone himself and was VERY gracious and patient.  Hard to find customer service like that anywhere these days!



Thanks for your kind reply.  I too am in slow-mode, since I have to build the train room before I can build the layout.  My simple 5 ft. test track on a shelf just isn't very interesting (sigh).  I too have faced difficulty with installation, but that is due to my inexperience and to the very tight space inside a P2K SD9 shell.  After finally getting it all back together, it ran intermittently, so I had to re-solder several wire splices: success!

I am also waiting for better steam sound files before cutting out the factory electronics from my fleet of boiling-water locomotive models.  Maybe, like you, I'll settle for a mix of Railpro  and DCC.  Fortunately, I'm in no rush.  Nonetheless, I look forward to reading more of your progress.


Forum Tips and Help / Re: How to Quote Someone's Post
« on: February 13, 2018, 05:23:18 PM »
Bill:  Thanks for the tutorial: definitely a better (lazier) way to quote!  I hadn't noticed the cartoon balloon icon before.


Forum Tips and Help / Re: How to Quote Someone's Post
« on: February 13, 2018, 03:53:01 PM »
Just click on where it says “quote” on the right side of the post you want to quote. A text box will open. Type your quote just below the quoted text in the box.

Or do what I just did (with Windows 7): click "Edit" on upper left toolbar, then highlight the desired quote, "copy", then open a reply (dialogue box) and "paste."  I am a slow typist, so this works better for me.  Maybe someone knows an even lazier (better) way?


Has anyone heard back from the author of this thread as to whether (and how) his installation problem was solved?  I realize this is an old topic, but I found the discussion very interesting.  Unfortunately the author, melarson, does not appear to be on the rpug member list, so I'm not clear how to ask him/her directly.


RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: UCW Update
« on: December 10, 2017, 01:32:40 PM »

Your thoughtful note was very encouraging, certainly not "rambling."  Although I am years behind you in experience (I am still awaiting the contractor who will renovate my attic for a large train room), I have already accumulated a large roster of locomotives, and intend to do as you have.  I will read with interest your ongoing progress and insights.

Jim Wilkens (in far away Pennsylvania)

Bill: That makes sense to me, with the KA capacitor protected (from track polarity reversals) by the bridge rectifier. Your new diagram shows a LM-2, but I presume a LM-3 (or any track-powered device) could be wired in this manner.    Since the bridge rectifier in this schematic handles the full locomotive current, I expect it will require a higher current rating than those used in light-only circuits.  I would appreciate any current information ;) you could provide on these specifications, as I am considering this approach for my installations (and that "Magic Smoke" is SO expensive!)

Alan: Does this configuration mitigate the concern about shorts you referenced in your May 12 comment?


Thank you, Alan. That clarifies my misperception.  Am I correct in assuming that the capacitor (KA) as diagrammed will only provide relief from light flicker, but not sound or motor?


Alan, I am puzzled as to why the addition of a bridge rectifier to the light (blue) common would result in a voltage drop to the motor circuit?  Was Kevin's installation different from Bill's diagram above?

Please excuse my ignorance if this is a stupid question. My brain circuits for electronics are obsolescent, since they were wired 40 years ago!

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