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Messages - Dean

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RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: Railpro/DCC video
« on: May 01, 2020, 09:57:19 AM »
Although I haven't tried it, it's a great feature. In my case, most of my DCC engines are gathering dust. I have even switched bodies on some engines so I can run old favorites with RailPro. ( over 90% of my engines are Stewart F units with Kato drives. 1990s vintage ) 
I know, I need help.     :)


RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: Keep Alive installation w/ Railpro
« on: September 29, 2019, 10:44:44 PM »
I thought about adding KAs to my engines. Instead, I repaired my track, replaced some switches, cleaned the track and coated the track with graphite. I haven't had any problems or the need for KAs in a year+. Even my DCC equipped engines run better.

RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: PIKO turnout
« on: September 29, 2019, 10:31:11 PM »
I used an AM-1 to operate a small relay. I connected a set of normally open contacts on the relay to the push button terminals on an NCE Snap-It twin coil switch controller. Works great.
I have also used the headlight output of an LM-1 to do the same thing.
I run RailPro and NCE Power Pro on my layout. Using the NCE Snap-It and the AM-1/relay setup, I can control switches with RailPro and DCC. 

General Discussion / CB-1
« on: September 21, 2019, 12:25:50 PM »
Does anyone know what the trip current is for the CB-1.


RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: Motor over peak current
« on: September 11, 2019, 08:16:16 AM »
The blue box motors draw a lot more current than the new can motors. I would check the gearboxes and maybe give them a lube job. If the engine hasn't been run much, it may loosen up after being run more.
One thing I do with all my engines is do a second motor full load test after they have been run for a few hours. Usually the current drops.

RailPro Installations / Re: New HC-2 install.
« on: August 31, 2019, 11:09:28 AM »
Thanks for all the help  :D
Another HC question. There are times I don't run my layout for months. The HC batteries go dead, then it takes 12 - 14 hours to charge them up. I was thinking of plugging the battery charger into a timer and have the timer turn the battery charger on once a day for an hour to keep the batteries charged. Good idea or not? I was also thinking of having two timers. Timer #1 would run timer #2 for an hour every day. Timer #2 would be set to run the charger an hour every 12 days. Good, bad, better than the first idea?

RailPro Installations / New HC-2 install.
« on: August 30, 2019, 09:12:39 PM »
How would you add a new HC-2 to an existing system?

RailPro Discussion & Help / MU just for fun.
« on: February 19, 2019, 11:50:55 PM »
I decided to MU 9 engines with 19 cars just for fun. It worked great. No scrunching, bunching or clotheslining.  The train even ran fine on a 2.5+% grade around a curve. The engines were a mix of Stewart/Kato and Atlas. The only problem was a tripped breaker while going up the 2.5% grade. Maybe I can get a video.

RailPro Enhancments / Re: Using an LM-1 to control a switch.
« on: February 18, 2019, 06:05:25 PM »
Thanks, Jacob.
The Snap-it has been on my layout so long that I would have to get the instructions out to see how to program it. I seem to remember programming it with the throttle.


RailPro Enhancments / Using an LM-1 to control a switch.
« on: February 16, 2019, 12:04:43 AM »
I have very few powered switches. But one that I do have is in an out of the way place. I am using an NCE Snap-It to control the switch with DCC. (it's dual coil type) The Snap-It has provisions for a momentary contact pushbutton to operate the switch. Sooo... I connected the pushbutton terminals to a cheap glass relay with a 12V coil normally open contacts. To interface the glass relay with my HC-2, I used an LM-1 that I wasn't using. I connected the headlight output of the LM-1 to the coil of the relay and the LM-1 power leads to the track rails. After the HC-2 found the LM-1, I went into the setup page for the push buttons. I changed the headlight switch function from on-off to momentary contact. I made sure the brightness control was all the way up and renamed the LM-1 to 'Switch 36'. (36 is the DCC address). The only thing odd about this setup is the switch LM-1 shows up in the locomotive pages.  But it works. Pressing the headlight button on switch 36 LM-1 operates the relay which fires the Snap-it which throws the switch.

General Discussion / Re: Steepest grade for a loco only.
« on: February 15, 2019, 10:59:34 PM »
Adding weight to the engine will help it climb grades.

General Discussion / Re: Things do change
« on: September 07, 2018, 06:42:48 PM »
You have probably been asked this before, but, have you considered putting the RP decoder in a freight car and  running wires to the engine?

RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: LM-1
« on: September 02, 2018, 10:07:55 PM »
My LM-1 has been repurposed to control a double crossover. But, as Tim mentioned, it is listed on the locomotive page.

RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: RAILPRO LONGEVITY
« on: August 12, 2018, 04:27:54 PM »
I have a lot of money tied up in DCC equipment. When I started reading about RailPro I decided to add it to my DCC system. You can really tell how in inferior DCC is when you run it side by side with RailPro.
I think other DCC users would add RailPro if they knew they could run it alongside inferior DCC.

RailPro Discussion & Help / Re: MOTOR FULL LOAD CURRENT
« on: August 03, 2018, 09:41:04 AM »
Almost all my RailPro engines are in 4 or 5 unit consist. When they first start moving there is a few seconds where they appear to 'hunt'. After that, they all run with tight couplers. The controller needs feedback before it can start controlling the engines. Running them uncoupled is fruitless. The current draw per engine is so low it would be extremely hard to control them.
If you have engines that have large differences in full load current, one or the other could be out of the control range of the controller. My Atlas Trainmasters and Stewart 'F' units are that way. On top of that, the Stewarts are 20 years old and the Trainmasters are ~5 years old. I can run them together but it seems that it takes longer to get them to settle down. Slow speeds are worse. Once they come up to speed they run fine.
The engines that always run together I have tuned to make them run even better. I set the accel rate and the decel rate the same on all engines. I found through some experiments the controller overrides these settings but having them set the same makes them easier to opinion. I make sure the top speed and current settings are all the same. But, these engines are the same make and model and the same age.

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