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RailPro Specific Help & Discussion / Re: LM-2S vs. LM-3S
« Last post by KPack on December 02, 2025, 01:50:47 PM »
LM-3S has double the storage memory of the LM-2S.  As Tim said, it is much easier to install a keep-alive with an LM-3S because you don't need to use a bridge rectifier.  On that note, if you are installing a keep-alive I would highly recommend using Ring's PBM-2.  Yes it big but in my own experience it performs far better than normal DCC keep alives.  Far more stable.
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General Discussion / Re: Which power wires do I use on an LGB F-7 Trucks
« Last post by gregeusa on December 02, 2025, 12:04:27 PM »
Do your trucks have 3 wires or 4 wires?

Are you running from track or battery?

I can give you the answer if you answer these 2 questions.

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General Discussion / Which power wires do I use on an LGB F-7 Trucks
« Last post by trainman605 on December 02, 2025, 11:26:49 AM »
I'm going to install Rail Pro in an LGB F-7, which color wires on the power block do I use. I have done this before on my LGB Rio Grande diesel, I'm thinking I used the Brown and Yellow wires, is that correct or not. I think the Red wire is not used, but what is the Red wire used for. Please correct me on this, I could dissemble my LGB diesel to see what I did but would rather not do that just to look inside. Thanks for your help, trainman605
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RailPro Specific Help & Discussion / Re: LM-2S vs. LM-3S
« Last post by G8B4Life on November 25, 2025, 05:26:07 AM »
Your recollections are close.

Functionally, the LM-2S and 3S are pretty much the same.
  • The LM-2S had 2 input wires but the 3S only has one (it got a negative wire instead). Since there was never a way to use both input wires on the 2S as a locomotive module this is a moot difference.
  • You only had to use a bridge rectifier with the LM-2S if you wanted to use a keep alive. The 3S made the connections available on the LM itself so an external bridge rectifier isn't needed.
  • DCC capability is determined by the firmware loaded into the LM. It's been a long, long time since I played with LM's on DCC but I suspect the LM-2S's capability is the same as the LM-3S. There used to be an issue about not being able to do consists with NCE but that was an NCE issue. I would imagine it is not fixed.
The 3S may also have a bit more onboard storage space; I can't remember for sure though.

- Tim
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RailPro Specific Help & Discussion / LM-2S vs. LM-3S
« Last post by Tom on November 24, 2025, 07:40:25 PM »
Can anyone tell me what the significant differences are between the LM-2S and the LM-3S - it has been an while?

My recollection is that I had to use a rectified for something with an LM-2S which is not required with an LM-3S.

And the LM-2S seemingly usable by a DCC controller actually does not work - maybe.

Are any of these recollections correct, and is there anything else?

Thank you to anyone who knows.
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RailPro Specific Help & Discussion / Re: Directional Lighting Issue
« Last post by Espeelark on November 21, 2025, 06:53:10 PM »
Hi Tim - thanks for the reply.
I checked and yes I had the correct icon.
So, I followed your recommendation and reset only that button. Voila! That fixed it!
One of those digital 0's or 1's must have been out of whack....
Thanks!
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RailPro Specific Help & Discussion / Re: Directional Lighting Issue
« Last post by G8B4Life on November 21, 2025, 05:42:25 PM »
Have to ask the obvious but you have selected the correct button icons for directional lighting to work? and you only have one of each of the front and rear headlight buttons?

If above is correct about all I can suggest is to reset all the buttons backs to not used and set them up again.

- Tim
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RailPro Specific Help & Discussion / Directional Lighting Issue
« Last post by Espeelark on November 21, 2025, 01:02:15 PM »
Howdy!
I just completed the install of a (used) LM-3S module into an Atlas U33C. Everything works great except for the front headlight.
I have enabled "Directional Lighting".
When the loco goes forward, the front headlight does NOT come on.
When I select reverse, the rear headlight comes on as expected.
Selecting forward again, the rear headlight shuts off but the front headlight does NOT come on.
When I manually turn the front headlight on, it stays on regardless if its going forward or reverse.
Don't understand why this is occurring. I don't have this issue on any other loco/LM-3S module.
Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
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Finished RailPro Installation Examples / Re: Atlas SP U30C LM-3S Install
« Last post by Espeelark on November 20, 2025, 04:21:46 PM »
I am in the process of finishing an install to an Atlas U33C, and, instead of starting a new thread for that, I felt it appropriate to post it here since it is the same drive as the U30C I did a few years back. I changed things up a bit from what I did on the U30C. Here's what the U33C looks like.
 [ You are not allowed to view attachments ]

This was somewhat of a bear to do because before I could do anything I needed to change both of the motor's wires as well as the wires coming from the trucks as they were in terrible shape: chafed insulation and only one/two strands of copper filament soldered to the motor contacts.

I used an iPhone speaker and put that towards the front. The LM-3S is located back under the rear radiator. It's a bit of a tight fit there vertically, but, it works.
You can also see that I used a length of PCB board to make all of the wiring connections.

I also used warm-white 3528 SMDs that I got off of eBay. I like the color of them as it looks spot-on for the 1980.
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RailPro Specific Help & Discussion / Re: PWR-56 limitations and possible adjustments?
« Last post by TJMac on November 18, 2025, 05:34:32 PM »
Quote from: Michael Larson on November 13, 2025, 10:52:10 AM
Conclusion: Adjust the LRS-100-15 output voltage to 16 volts (it will go that high, as I have done this on my LRS-100-15 I use to power my Digitrax 8-amp Super Chief Command Station) and connect it directly to the track.  You'll get 16 volts with up to 7 amps available to run those O scale trains.  If you still need the repeater function of the PWR-56, just place it where needed, plug it in, and don't worry about connecting the output to anything.

Exactly what I was thinking.
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