Author Topic: Proto 2000 S-1  (Read 130 times)


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Proto 2000 S-1
« on: January 11, 2021, 05:52:10 PM »
I bought this years ago, but now that my layout is becoming a reality, I wanted to start equipping some loco's with RP. 

Sorry, no pictures, but this really did happen!  If you have a Proto 2000 S-1 I think my description will be clear without photos.

It was a bit tricky to remove the shell.  There are 2 screws to remove from the bottom in the center.  Then firmly grasp the shell and pull it off.  I found it easier to start with the cab end of the shell, as the bottom of the shell at the front end interferes with the base.

After removing the front headlight from its saddle in the top weight, I removed the top weight by removing the mounting screw.  I cut the weight off just behind the screw that you just removed, and saved the rear piece for posterity.  I removed the motor and lined the bottom of the motor well in the bottom weight with kapton tape.  I also insulated the right side of the front of the motor well since the copper contact connected to the bottom motor contact will be in contact with the well.  You can loosen the brass fittings on the top and bottom of the motor if you want to rotate the copper connection tab, but unless you want a huge "seek and find" experience don't fully remove the brass fittings.  The tiny brushes and springs will fall out and will be almost impossible to find (the voice of experience!!). After reinstalling the motor you can solder the bottom motor wire to the tip of the copper tab which will have about 1/8" protruding above the well, enough to get the wire soldered on.

I then reinstalled the front half of the weight, and placed a (naked, wrapped with Kapton) LM-3S just behind the cut-off weight plate.  I used what my kids used to call "sticky tack" (poster mounting putty I think it's called) to secure the LM to the top of the motor housing.  I positioned the LM with the 6-pin harness forward.  I used small led's (not SMD's), with 1K ohm resistors on the negative leg, and the forward one fit nicely into the well where the original bulb was installed.  I mounted a cut-down iPhone 4 speaker in the depression of the front weight, over the front truck.  I glued the rear LED and resistor to the inside of the hood abutting the rear light guide that goes through the top of the cab.

I made all the connections and taped down all the wires.  I had a bit of excess wire for several connections that I used a twist tie to bundle together aft of the LM.  you can see inside the hood where there is a recess that will accommodate some excess wiring.  I shortened the harness wires but in retrospect I should have shortened them more.  When I reassembled the hood, the bundle of excess wiring rubbed on the worm gear of the rear truck. Fortunately, the top of the worm gear is just below the top of its housing, so I super glued a small piece of sheet styrene to the top of the housing creating a cover for the gearbox.

This is a model of an as-delivered New Haven S-1, road number 0972.  Just so happens that google pictures has a photo of the prototype 0972 in the same paint scheme, so on my HC I have a picture of the real thing.

Next will be an Atlas S-2, an earlier Atlas run which was not DCC-equipped.  I will take pictures!

« Last Edit: January 11, 2021, 06:12:21 PM by faithie999 »


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Re: Proto 2000 S-1
« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2021, 06:06:15 PM »
I read no mention of resistors for the LEDs. You did include them, right?

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When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro


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Re: Proto 2000 S-1
« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2021, 06:07:10 PM »
yes.  I realized that I should have mentioned that.  I used 1K ohm resistors.  I'll edit my post.



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Re: Proto 2000 S-1
« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2021, 12:12:27 PM »
faithie999 thank you for this post as I have a Proto 2000 S-1 I will be opening up soon to do an install. I had not hoped to have a speaker installed but this gives me hope and I also look forward to how you do the Atlas S-2's as I have several of those I will be needed to get converted but not until next year. They are tight and nicely weighted and I suspect they will be forced on a diet when this is all over. Hopefully you can post photos.