Okay...
Pulled out the multi-meter and traced out all of the lighting circuits.
Immediately found my problem!
Turns out that the J1 and J7 sockets go to a row of surface mount resistors on the bottom of the MTC motherboard, (to reduce the voltage to the lights I am guessing). Bypassing the board was feeding a straight 13-15 Volts to the lights, (causing an "Output Short" error), and not making them very happy.
The Rear Light cluster is simple. Two wires. (J1:Pin4 = Rear Anode = RP Blue Common + and J1:Pin3 = Rear Cathode = RP Output 4 Violet) Since they are LED's and don't appreciate being zapped with 13-15 Volts I installed a 1k Ohm 1/4W resistor on the Cathode and Bob's Your Uncle!
The Front Light cluster was a bit more involved.
The mini light board has some surface mount resistors for the Frt Light but they DID NOT reduce the voltage! (Ask me how I know!
) Not sure of the resistor value or if they are supposed to add in serial to the resistors on the MB or if they are there for some other function?
Anyway... Frt. Mini Light board is:
J7:Pin5 = Common +3.3V for the Anode + of the # Boards and the Front Markers. (NOT FOR THE FRT LIGHT!)
J1:Pin1 = Front Light Anode +
J1:Pin2 = Front Light Cathode -
J7:Pin1 = # Boards Cathodes -
J7:Pin2 = Marker Lights Cathodes -
Soo... With the replacement of one burnt out headlamp later I ended up with:
J7:Pin5 to the RP Blue Common +.
J1:Pin1 to the RP Blue Common +.
J1:Pin2 with a 1k Ohm 1/4W resistor to RP Output 1 (White)
J7:Pin2 with a 1k Ohm 1/4W resistor to RP Output 2 (Yellow)
J7:Pin1 with a 1k Ohm 1/4W resistor to RP Output 3 (Green)
(Hence the reason why the Rear Light is on Output 4 (Violet). (See! There is a method to my madness!)
Now everything works! Even bidirectionally! I even added the MARS light feature to the front light even though I am not sure if the B&O Sharknose used one... Sue me!