Atlas SP U30C LM-3S Install

[Espeelark]

So here is my second RailPro LM-3S install - an old-school Atlas U-boat. I heavily kit-bashed it a number of years ago using an Atlas U33C as a starting point and grafted an Atlas U23B rear radiator section for the U30C conversion. I also swapped out the stock Adirondack side-frames with correct General Steel Casting (GSC) frames. Numerous other super-detail parts were added and/or fabricated and then the whole thing was airbrushed SP scarlet and grey and then weathered to match the prototype.

The 1st photo shows the stock unit I started with.
The 2nd photo shows the mechanism completely disassembled so that I could properly clean and lube everything as well as solder the pick-up wires to the truck side-frames. You will also note in this photo that the two weights were milled down to give me the room needed for the LM-3S module and iPhone speaker. Well, only one was actually milled - the other was cut with a hack-saw.
The 3rd photo shows the finished install.

I left all of the extraneous wires so that I can eventually add headlights. I'm still looking for a source of SMD's that are of the proper color for 1970's vintage diesels. More of a sunny-white and/or golden white. Something with a hint of yellow and definitely no blue tone. I want SMDs large enough to be glued to the inside of the shell and still straddle both plastic "light tubes". Perhaps someone here can point me in the right directions here?

These older Atlas units run great! Nice and smooth and low amp draw.
I have a U33C yet to do as well as an AT&SF C30-7 that is still in the super-detailing phase.

Hope this inspires someone else!

[G8B4Life]

Looks good. Hacksawing the frame, ugh I remember what a pain that is!

As for LED's, a quick search of eBay will probably yield you lots of options. Others here prefer to get their LED's from Evans Designs: http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/smd-chip-leds.html.

You'll probably find most listings as warm white but another name you might find is sunny white. The blue tinted one is called cool white or bright white.

A company called Richmond Controls sells a golden white LED. I've seen and may still have a 3mm one. It had a orangey coloured body and it truly was a golden colour. It was a very nice but to me seemed more like the colour of a headlight that was on low, not high.

- Tim

[KPack]

Like Tim said, look at Evan Designs.  They have many different sizes.  The larger "bulbs" can be sanded down flat and glued to a surface if needed.  You'll want the "warm white" color.  It's just about perfect for an incandescent headlight.  Get them prewired and solder in your own 1k ohm 1/4 watt resistors. 

Nice install by the way!

-Kevin

[ON28]

Nice install, and nice modeling!

[BruceRogers]

I use either 0603 or 0402 warm white LEDs with leads attached. I buy them off eBay in packets of 20.
I mount the LEDs directly into the headlight housing after trimming off the number board lights and gluing them in separately. If the locomotive is a light color I make sure to paint the inside with black paint using a toothpick. Then I paint over that with silver. The LEDs are glued in with Testor's Clear Parts Cement/Window Maker. Most of my headlight installs are done this way.

[Espeelark]

Those look like great headlight installs Bruce!
Would be great to see some photos of the inside of those shells of your actual LED install. Perhaps consider starting a new topic/thread about that?
Paul Mac

[BruceRogers]

Sure I can do that. I'll look at doing it later today or tomorrow.

[Espeelark]

I am in the process of finishing an install to an Atlas U33C, and, instead of starting a new thread for that, I felt it appropriate to post it here since it is the same drive as the U30C I did a few years back. I changed things up a bit from what I did on the U30C. Here's what the U33C looks like.


This was somewhat of a bear to do because before I could do anything I needed to change both of the motor's wires as well as the wires coming from the trucks as they were in terrible shape: chafed insulation and only one/two strands of copper filament soldered to the motor contacts.

I used an iPhone speaker and put that towards the front. The LM-3S is located back under the rear radiator. It's a bit of a tight fit there vertically, but, it works.
You can also see that I used a length of PCB board to make all of the wiring connections.

I also used warm-white 3528 SMDs that I got off of eBay. I like the color of them as it looks spot-on for the 1980.