LM4S-G

[darryl.trains]

I have been contemplating getting a module and going battery in a box car. I almost have to do this as I only have aluminium track code 250. Someone had installed some controls and batteries but long ago. History id not so good but there is something to work with. Also I have a LGB Forney with a socket to connect to the freight car wiring.  So I need new batteries and a charger. Here comes my question? Best place to purchase these needed items.  Darryl in Yuma doing On30 and G... I know where to buy the G module right Bill?    Darryl in Arid-Zona

[darryl.trains]

Sort of a follow up till I get some info on my previous questions.   In the box car is a hitec hp-2rnb and an instant r/c throttle.   I would have to purchase a r/c transmitter and I surely do not need to buy more things to clutter up my space.
HELP !!!!

[darryl.trains]

After chasing for information on various websites, I found answers. First I will pull out the r/c stuff from the boxcar and just keep the wiring harness. Previous owner used r/c batteries and found out they not good to use with model railroad engines. So I think I am on the right track, pun, get rechargeable batteries and charger plus a RP module. I would like to use the harness as my LGB Forney has been modified with connectors in the rear of the engine for that harness.   Still playing with trains.  ######## Darryl in Arid-Zona

[MikeC]

Hi Darryl:
I think you are on the right track removing all the old stuff and starting fresh with the railpro.
So far I have only done 2 steam engines, with the controller in the engine, and the battery in the tender (same as in a box car).
I am using  standard lipo rc batteries, 14.4 volts or 18.5v, 5000-6000 mah, depending on the engine and space in the tender. In the first two I was able to leave the coal load unscrewed and remove the fake coal to access the battery for swap out. 
My next one that I'm working on wont work that way, so I am leaving the tender body unattached to the base and trucks for easy removal to switch out the battery when needed. I don't do onboard charging, I want to be able to swap out and keep running.
I have the battery connector wired to an on/off toggle switch on the bottom of the can, along with a fuse.  I found an available switch / fuse combo unit that can be purchased that is designed just for this.

[ron045]

Darryl,

Consider using LiIon batteries with PCB protection vice LiPo.  The PCB prevents under current and over charge.  Lipo would be harder to manage and LiIon can remain in your engine for onboard charging.

I have been using MTO batteries and buy them from GScaleInstallations.net at a pretty good price vs other MTO resellers.

I did also recently find and try these XML batteries.  Here is a video and you can decide.

Ron

[faithie999]

off-topic, but I'm curious as to what the third rail (black) between the outer rails is for.  the LMB track I'm familiar with is just 2-rail.

Ken

[JRad]

I did also recently find and try these XML batteries. <Snip>

Ron

Hi Ron -  I didn't watch your entire video, so if you did this then ignore me.

I also use MTO batteries and what has me sold is their performance in a dead short situation.  Most LiIon protection boards will pass enough current to melt wires/plugs before shutting down for over current.  MTO has engineered in superior dead short protection that will shut things down long before it gets hot.  They have a video on their website showing this test compared with an un-named competitor's battery.

I've been using LiIons for over 10 years. I used to buy cheap, then replace them a lot. All my MTO batteries, some 5 years old,  are still strong.

UPDATE: I finished watching you video, and I think the "stuttering" with the MTO was a little odd, but I would advise that you never run LiIons down until the PCB shuts them down. That really puts a strain on the cells. Charging early will result in much longer life for any brand.

[darryl.trains]

Ron

Looks like your presentation on XML batteries will be a good choice for me to pursue.   Cheers TOF in Arid-Zona

[ron045]

off-topic, but I'm curious as to what the third rail (black) between the outer rails is for.  the LMB track I'm familiar with is just 2-rail.

Ken

I started the hobby 17 years ago as a three railer (o gauge).  I only just found deadrail 2 years ago.  I still need track power for other equipment not yet converted and my Son and Daughter have not yet seen the light of deadrail.

Ron

[ron045]

I did also recently find and try these XML batteries. <Snip>

Ron

Hi Ron -  I didn't watch your entire video, so if you did this then ignore me.

I also use MTO batteries and what has me sold is their performance in a dead short situation.  Most LiIon protection boards will pass enough current to melt wires/plugs before shutting down for over current.  MTO has engineered in superior dead short protection that will shut things down long before it gets hot.  They have a video on their website showing this test compared with an un-named competitor's battery.

I've been using LiIons for over 10 years. I used to buy cheap, then replace them a lot. All my MTO batteries, some 5 years old,  are still strong.

UPDATE: I finished watching you video, and I think the "stuttering" with the MTO was a little odd, but I would advise that you never run LiIons down until the PCB shuts them down. That really puts a strain on the cells. Charging early will result in much longer life for any brand.

I agree with you.  I never run my trains for three hours straight.  So running down to PCB shutoff will most likely never happen for me.
Ron