How To Set Up Chuff Synchronisation

[GKnowles]

Hi folks, I’m new to this group and am seeking some guidance here. I recently installed RailPro in my LGB 2-6-0 Mogul replacing the Reed’s Hobby Shop system of 25 years (Reed’s was one of the original R/C systems for garden railroads). Everything went well though I would like to synchronise the chuff with the driver rotation. I read elsewhere on the forum this can be done but it wasn’t clear to me what needs to be done exactly. I have a HC-2-SUN handheld (SW1045 2.28), a LM-4S-G receiver and am using the Light Steam ULT sound s/w (latest version). Are there step-by-step instructions available describing the chuff set up (wiring & HC set up)?
Grant

[gregeusa]

Interesting, I went to the manual and no mention. I see one wire that is labelled "input", it is purple and shows a switch to plus 5 volts, but no mention of this in the manual. All manuals should at least label the connections on the board.

From this thread in 2020: not implemented yet:
https://rpug.pdc.ca/index.php?topic=1089.0

but this thread seems to imply it sort of works:
https://rpug.pdc.ca/index.php?topic=1303.0

Greg

[ron045]

but this thread seems to imply it sort of works:
https://rpug.pdc.ca/index.php?topic=1303.0

Greg

That was mine.  I had some mechanical binding.  I fixed it and it runs much better.  Here is the video.

Ron

[gregeusa]

OK, really confused now.

That sure looks like an MTH setup, so are you running DCS Protosound III and then using feeding from the railpro to the DCS hardware, or did you drive the motor directly?

The question was about chuff synchronization, and using the chuff input on the railpro board, but it does not appear you could be doing that, since MTH hardware uses the tach strip to synchronize chuffs.

Can you explain your setup please?

Greg

[William Brillinger]

I contacted Ring for instructions. (none are included in the manual yet)
Here are the instructions I received:

You need to connect the input wire as shown below.  The switch needs to open and close either two or four times per main wheel revolution.
In the loco module setup you can select to use the input wire for chuff sync and choose either chuff on leading , trailing or leading and trailing inputs.

Please be sure LM-4S and HC are at newest program revisions.  Please see RailPro Assistant User Manual for how to check and update programs.

[ron045]

OK, really confused now.

That sure looks like an MTH setup, so are you running DCS Protosound III and then using feeding from the railpro to the DCS hardware, or did you drive the motor directly?

The question was about chuff synchronization, and using the chuff input on the railpro board, but it does not appear you could be doing that, since MTH hardware uses the tach strip to synchronize chuffs.

Can you explain your setup please?

Greg

The PS stuff was ripped out.  I did leave in the tac reader which has three wires.  + -
And signal.  The signal wire goes to the purple wire

[gregeusa]

Thanks Bill, it was alluded to, but no details. Interesting that the chuff is tied to plus 5 volts, as most chuff triggers in locos that are mechanical are tied to ground.

Famous mistake in G scale by the first Bachmann K-27, since remedied. Can invert the signal with a transistor easily.

Ron, you might try printing a different tach strip, and get closer synchronization.

Greg

[GKnowles]

I had received the same instructions from RP when I contacted them yesterday. Setting up a cam on the driver axle that feeds the purple lead should be straight forward. My key question is regarding the HC set up. As RP suggested, I updated the S/W versions on the HC-2b ( my came pre installed with 2.28 yet the RP web site lists 2.26 as the latest so I left the 2.28 installed) and the LM-4S-G was upgraded to 1.03. I then went back to re set up the HC buttons for the steam sound (light steam ULC) but never encountered the configuration option to set up the chuff on leading, trailing or leading and trailing inputs. Has any one set up their chuffs with these settings? If so, can you walk me through the steps one by one?

[G8B4Life]

It's there, once you've set the sound and used the steam loco icon for that (you must use the steam loco icon), pressing the next page button a few times will get you to the advanced sound setup page.



The page will initially not have the chuff sync enabled so enable it and then you can change the trigger to open, closed or both.

- Tim

[GKnowles]

Thanks Tim, it's right here as you identified, I never thought to scroll through further! Now all I need to do now is fabricate a cam mechanism.

[KB02]

Now if we could just get this for HO scale. (Wish list!)

[G8B4Life]

Amazingly, that screen capture was captured from an LM-2S! I do doubt that the chuff sync feature would actually work though.

- Tim

[jebouck]

Another Newby to AP here.
Could that Chuff input (in green on the diagram) be a reed switch like you use with a Phoenix sound system?

[JRad]

Yes. The best response is from actual switches Vs some of the optical sensors which require different wiring.

Don't expect it to chuff like a Phoenix though. It seems Ring is using the input to suggest the speed to the program. If you start fast or stop fast the chuff will lag, or continue after you stop!  I've found if I'm careful to start and stop slowly that it isn't as bad. It's been suggested that adding Load will help that. I prefer to run with no load, having absolute control over speed for switching.

[jebouck]

Using a reed switch and three magnets on a tender wheel, I succesfully got it to chuff 4 beats per driver revolution.
Works good enough for me.

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