New install issues

[Morebassman]

I Had my HC repaired and I had a eyebolt installed for a landyard since it was there.
 I can't remember exactly how long but I think it was closer to 3 weeks.
$25.00 for the eyebolt since the controller was open.... but $35.00 if you just send it in for the Eyebolt for the lanyard.
Kind of expensive either way but I read where Ring dosen't recommend taking apart the controller for callibration issues... But I remember a preivious post from Bill installing his own eyebolt without a problem.
I"m a little afraid of opening up a $250.00 plus controller with my lack of knowledge on this thing but hey... that's how you learn. Your call if you want to install an eyebolt for a landyard.
By the way... I had dropped my controller seveal times in my basement and that is why I had to send it in to be repaired. Haven't dropped it since the landyard.

[MustDecide]

What is the difference between the Blue Label and the Grey Label HC2? Is one newer?

[William Brillinger]

The Blue Label HC-2B is the current production version

It has has more memory than the Grey Label HC-2 along with a redesigned circuit board. the board was redesigned due to changes in availability of some components that were used in the original HC-2 along with some efficiency improvements and the addition of USB based charging. The original HC and HC-2 use a separate connector for charging.

[Blueleader]

Got an email from Ring and they repaired my HC saying only that it was a manufacturing defect. They offered me an LM3S for $50 as compensation for my troubles. Basically it covers my shipping cost and I now have a refurbed HC  

[KPack]

Take the LM-3S!  You can never have enough modules.

-Kevin

[Blueleader]

I got my HC-2 kit back and plugged it up to charge and it got very warm on the back, too warm for my comfort. Does anybody else's do this?

[KPack]

It'll heat up a good amount when you are charging it from a very low state.  I would not be concerned.  If I remember correctly the HC has built-in thermal overload protection....if it gets too hot it shuts down.

-Kevin

[Alan]

It'll heat up a good amount when you are charging it from a very low state.  I would not be concerned.  If I remember correctly the HC has built-in thermal overload protection....if it gets too hot it shuts down.

-Kevin

I think that applies only to the circuitry, not the batteries. There are no sensors I am aware of on the batteries in my HCs. I have charged them from a very low state several times. They do get warm but not hot by any means.

We have a cordless phone handset that the battery gets very hot if you run it way down and then put it on the cradle. So hot you would think it is going to melt the plastic phone. When that occurs I place it on the cradle for a while then let it cool down for some time before returning to the cradle. Batteries getting hot doesn't sit well with me.

I'd keep a watchful eye on your HC. Not leave it unguarded while charging just in case the factory sealed smoke wants out.

[William Brillinger]

Yes, They can get quite warm.
I've never seen my HC-2 get so warm that it was uncomfortable to hold though.

[Blueleader]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll keep an eye on it while it charges especially from a low state. I'll borrow a thermal reader and next time it is very low on power i'll test it while charging and post here.

[William Brillinger]

I'm Charging an HC-2B right now that was all the way drained (no power on). It's at about 50% now and sitting at 84.2 deg F.

[Coupe633]

It is a little comforting that this is the first post on this thread in over 7 years so my hope is that this is just a fluke, but while installing a LM3s into a locomotive it began to melt right in front of me. Actually the same thing happened on another one I was trying to install on another locomotive last week. I was almost ready to install the shell back on the body after getting everything installed and set properly then I felt something very hot and the corner of the 6 pin end began to melt. I have installed about 30 of these for my fleet and this is the first time I have had this happen, but two? I am wondering if I might have purchased a bad batch or something. I knew when I got into Rail Pro it would be expensive but when you just trash $180 worth of modules it gets real sobering. It seems that from what I have read here the best bet may be to send them to Ring for inspection as there could be an internal reason. I had planned to spend the run-up to the holidays to finally sit down and get the next batch of locomotives converted to Rail Pro but this is a show stopper and I may just walk away from it and do something else for a while. Very frustrating and you just feel like you dropped a brand new locomotive on the concrete floor. Would trying to reach out to Ring be the best option? I do have other new modules in my inventory I could replace just to finish up this install but am afraid it might me something more than just the module. It is a Proto 2000 GP9. Seems that Life-Like only isolates one rail side for power pick-up through wires and the entire frame is powered by the other track. Seems like a risky design. I don't know if this would have shorted out the module since it is encased in plastic.

[KPack]

Definitely contact Ring.  It could be an internal issue to the LM.  Not likely, but it has happened before.  The LM-3's are well made.  The only issue I had like this was with a LM-2S.  My one issue was with the amplifier....with power applied it quickly became very hot near the 6-pin (where the amp is located) and let the smoke out.  I sent it back to Ring for diagnosis and they replaced it.  Never had a problem like that with any other module before or after.

What wire was beginning to melt on the 6-pin?

It definitely could be something with the locomotive though.  Carefully check all the wires to make sure there are no shorts.  With the power going through the frame there is a much higher potential for problems.  I still have two locomotives like that but I was very careful with the install and made sure there was no possibility of wires grounding out.

-Kevin

[ON28]

Why having an LM test stand is a must pre-install.

[Espeelark]

ON28 said, "Why having an LM test stand is a must pre-install."

I'm curious, what would one of those look like and how would it work?

Thanks!