Dual Switch Single Track Wiring

[Alan]

Rather than having connections for the resistors and diodes along the wiring under the module, cut the leads of the resistor and diode really short, solder together and to wire, cover with heat shrink, and finally use the remaining short lead to insert into the circuit board connector. Not only will it make it a neat installation it will also be easier to troubleshoot if there is a problem. All your discrete components and connections will be right at the circuit board.

[TwinStar]

Rather than having connections for the resistors and diodes along the wiring under the module, cut the leads of the resistor and diode really short, solder together and to wire, cover with heat shrink, and finally use the remaining short lead to insert into the circuit board connector. Not only will it make it a neat installation it will also be easier to troubleshoot if there is a problem. All your discrete components and connections will be right at the circuit board.

Thanks Alan, that make sense.

[TwinStar]

This may be self explanatory to some, but I'm needing some clarification on the wiring.

12+ self explanatory

GND self explanatory

Trigger Switch: all four of the momentary switches to this. I think it was mentioned to use RJ12 flat type wire.

NC: this is the OUT to the rail that I want switched.

EMPTY: Do not use

COM: this is the IN to the rail that I want switched.

NO: Is this used with the track status LED's?

[Alan]

You have it right.

The track status LED on the NO connection will light when the track is un-powered (switched off). The track status LED on the NC connection will light when the track is powered (switched on). Alternately, you could simply hook the NC LED directly to the switched track to eliminate wire(s) from the wiring run.

Since the LEDs are powered by DCC track voltage (which is AC power) it would be prudent to add a diode in series with each LED to prevent reverse voltage (negative DCC cycle) from possibly damaging the LED. LEDs are reasonably tolerate of reverse voltage but why take the chance. Any common diode will work.

Don't forget to use the proper dropping resistor with each LED.

[TwinStar]

Alan:

Thanks for the confirmation. This module will be DC powered at home and DCC at Free-mo setups. I assume the diodes will work with both?

[Alan]

yes

[TwinStar]

Thanks again Alan.

[TwinStar]

With the switched rail connected to the Normally Closed output then the 'fail safe' in the event of board failure or 12V power failure (or absence) is for continuity to be ensured and the rail powered, correct?

[Alan]

yes

[TwinStar]

Here's an in progress wiring update. I found some sweet standoffs on Amazon.

[TwinStar]

yes

Thanks!