Author Topic: Problem with RailPro Loco  (Read 13191 times)

MtRR75

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Problem with RailPro Loco
« on: February 26, 2020, 10:41:02 PM »
I have a problem with a loco with RailPro installed.  I do not know if this is a RailPro problem, but it started when I had the loco converted from DC to RailPro.

The problem is that the loco shorts out at random times and at random places on my HO layout.  I have done extensive testing to try and figure out that is causing the shorts.  WARNING.  This will be long, because I am including all of the things that have already tried.

THE LOCOMOTIVE
BLI BlueBox 2-8-2, bought used in 2013.  It came with BLI’s sound card installed plus an after-market DC card.  I was running DC at the time, so I removed the DCC card, and replaced it with a jumper that allowed me to run this loco in DC mode.  But I only ran it a few times, because I found that the BLI-DC mode to be too cumbersome.  Recently, I ran the loco 1 loop around my track, then got RailPro installed.  In all these limited DC runs, the loco never shorted out.  But it is a very small sample.

The loco picks up power from all 4 drive wheels on both sides.  The tender also picks up power on both trucks, one for left rail and one for the right rail.

THE PROBLEM
A RailPro LM-3S was installed by Yankee Dabbler.  When the loco was returned to me, it immediately began to short out at random times and locations on my 4’ by 8’ oval layout.  When the loco shorts out, the red warning light on the HC-2 goes on, AND the indicator lights on the PWR-56 and the AR-1 also turn red.  This indicates that the problem is a short.  If the problem was a loss of power (like dirty wheels or track) the PWR-56 and AR-1 indicator lights would remain green.

This problem occurs about 1 to 4 times in one trip around my 4’ x 8’ test loop.  I have noticed that the shorting is much more common when the loco runs counterclockwise on my oval, but it does occur in the clockwise direction, as well.  However, if I run the locomotive BACKWARDS, this problem NEVER occurs – regardless of whether it is backing clockwise or counter-clockwise.

When a short occurs, momentum carries the loco about another 1-2 inches before coming to a stop.  About 4 seconds after the PWR-56 shuts down, it powers up to see if the short has been fixed.  Most of the time the loco starts up and moves on.  However, there have been several instances when the loco started to move, but immediately shut down again – indicating that the short was still present.

I have 6 other RailPro-equiped, steam locomotives.  All of these run smoothly.  One of the others is another BLI 2-8-2 that is almost identical to the problem loco.  The only difference that I can see is that the problem loco is a BLI Blue-Line loco, with a 7-wire plug attaching the tender to the loco, and the smooth-running is an earlier BLI Powerhouse/Quantum Sound loco, with a 6-wire plug.  Note that both locos were converted to RailPro, and during the installation, the BLI electronics boards were removed from both locos.  However the original plugs that connected the tender to the loco were utilized to pass the RailPro signals to and from the loco to the tender.

Also, note that the problem BLI loco has an LM-3S installed, while the well-behaved BLI loco has an LM-2S installed.  However, I do not think this is the problem, as I have one other LM-2S loco that runs flawlessly, and 4 other LM-3S locos that run flawlessly.  Software for the HC-2 and LMs is up to date.

TRACK ISSUES ???
There are two things that point to possible track issues.  (a) The Yankee Dabbler people ran the loco on their test track before sending it back to me – with no problems.  (b) The short shows distinct preferences for certain sections of track.

However, this problem does not appear to be a track problem for the following reasons.  (a) There is no section of track where the short always occurs.  (b) There is no common pattern in the sections of track were the short tends to show up.  They include straight track, curved track and turnouts.  (c) The majority of the places where shorts occur are inside blocks, not at the junction of 2 blocks.  (d) The track is firmly nailed down on cork roadbed.  It has not been ballasted, yet.  All track sections are soldered together, except for turnouts.  Feeder wires are soldered to the outer sides of the rails.  (e) The track was vacuumed shortly before starting to test this loco, and the track has been cleaned (using Woodland Scenic cleaning pads) several times during the tests of this loco.

Ideally, an easy way to test the track would be to take my loco to another modeler’s layout.  Unfortunately I know of no model railroaders with layouts anywhere near me that I could test the loco on.  I should also point out that the Yankee Dabbler has offered to try and fix the loco, if I send it back to them.  However, since it ran successfully on their layout, I don’t see how they would know when they had solved the problem.

FIRST POSSIBLE CAUSE—SHORTS OF WHEEL AXLES??
I noticed that the tender wheels had VERY THIN rubber insulation between the wheels and the axles, and the wheels indicated that this loco (which I got used) had been run a lot.  I wondered if power was occasionally leaking past the insulation, causing the short.
I replaced the tender wheels with some new Intermountain wheels.  The problem continued to occur.  So this is not the problem.  I put the original wheels back on the loco.
I also removed the pilot truck and the rear cab truck and ran the loco without them to make sure that one of them was causing the problem.  They weren’t the cause.  The shorts continued

SECOND POSSIBLE CAUSE—SHORTS ON FROGS.??
It is true that my layout has Atlas turnouts, which are notorious for causing shorts in steamers at the frogs.  However:
(1) I have a modified my turnouts to that they no longer short any of my other locos, including another BLI 2-8-2 that has exactly the same wheel and shell structure and exactly the same pick-up structure.
(2) I temporarily covered the parts of the frogs that might be causing shorts with painters tape.  The loco still shorted out.
(3) About half of the shorts occur when the loco (and tender) are not near the frog.  And some shorts occur when the loco is nowhere any part of a turnout.
(4) I also verified that there is no part of the loco hanging low enough to touch the track when running over the turnouts

THIRD POSSIBLE CAUSE – LOOSE WIRE UNDER SHELL??
I removed the shells from the loco and tender.
(1) I could not see any bare loose wires.  One wire that had been cut off as unnecessary had been neatly cut off, tinned, and covered with shrink-wrap that extended beyond the end of the wire.  No problem there.
(2) I did find one wire that looked like it had a knick in the insulation, and that nicked area was very close to one of the solder joints for the motor.  However, (a) I could not see wire showing through the nick, (b) there was no weakness in the wire at that point, indicating that the wire was still intact, and (c) when I moved the nicked section of wire away from the motor (and all other wires), the shorting-out problem remained.  Just to be sure, I put a dab of liquid electrical tape on the nick to seal it.
(3) When I ran the loco and tender with out their shells, the shorting problem continued.  (Note: I did put an extra weight on the front pilot for these tests, because the missing shell weight was causing the front drivers to derail.  I wrapped the weight in painters tape to make sure that it did not contribute to the shorting problem.)
(4) While the shells were off, and the loco was running slowly, I took a small paint brush and gently brushed all of the wire junction areas to see if I could locate any loose junctions, and cause the short.  For the most part, I got no response.  However, during one session, I seemed to get the short to occur repeatedly when I brushed the contact area where the power to the headlight (the small box of contacts in front of the first driver) meets the wires to the light (in the shell – which was not attached at the time).  However, this was never repeatable in subsequent trials.

FOURTH POSSIBLE CAUSE – ELECTRICAL PLUG BETWEEN TENDER AND LOCO??
While reattaching the boiler shell, I had to temporarily unplug the plug of wires from the tender.  I studied this plug (and its socket).  All of the pins in the socket are straight.  But I noticed something where the wires enter the male plug that is attached to the tender.  There are 7 wires entering this plug.  I could see a tiny bit of bare wire showing at the base of one of the wires – it looks like #2 – counting from the right.  This wire is also bent over slightly, so that it crosses the next wire (#3) very close to the where wire #3 goes into its metal-lined hole in the plug.  I wonder if the mystery short might be occurring here.
Of the 7 wires entering the plug, wires #2 and #6 both bend across the plug towards the opposite sides immediately after exiting the plug.  In an effort to force these 2 wires to lineup neatly with the other wires, I gently massaged the wires until all 7 of then were laying parallel.  Then I wrapped a small piece of painters tape around the bundle to keep the wires in place.  Unfortunately, this did not solve the shorting problem.
It is still possible that this is the cause.  However, I do not have the skills to modify this plug of wires, or the eyesight to see how close the wires might be.

NOW FOR THE REAL SURPRISE.  I decided to map exactly where these shorts occur, marking each location with a small pin.  I had accumulated about 15 markers when I had to quit for the day.  I shut down the electronics (as usual) and left the loco on the track.  The next day, I turned on the electronics and resumed the test.  Suddenly, I got NO shorts. I tried both directions, still no shorts.  I quit and came back later.  Still no shorts.  I removed the loco from the track and re-installed the tender shell.  (Both shells had been removed some time ago.)  I put the loco back on the track -- still no shorts.  I picked up the loco and reversed its direction -- from counter clockwise to clockwise -- both in forward mode.  Still no shorts.  The next day, I ran more tests -- still no shorts.  But on the third day, the shorts returned, and have remained a problem every time that I have tested the loco in the last couple of weeks.  I can not think of anything that was different on those two days.

Any ideas as to what is going on?

Doug

nodcc4me

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2020, 06:49:49 PM »
Doug, the one thing that stands out to me is the fact that the problem does not occur when the loco is in reverse. That would pretty much eliminate any track or power problems. It would also seem to eliminate the LM2-S having a problem.


I have the same BLI Blue line light Mikado with an LM-3S installed and it runs beautifully. I would say your problem is definitely in the tender or the locomotive connector, putting emphasis on the former.


I'm sure someone else will jump in here with suggestions.
Al

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Alan

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2020, 07:20:30 AM »
My money is on internal loco/tender wires. Bare spot somewhere.
Alan

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When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro

MtRR75

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #3 on: February 29, 2020, 03:59:00 PM »
Thanks for the ideas.  I have already checked the wires for bare spots, but I could not see where all of them go.  At some point, I will try to trace each of the 7 wires from end to end.  Unfortunately, they are all black and tangled in a ball under the cab.

In the meantime, I did another test  – with interesting results.

In a questionable attempt to eliminate any possible tender pick-up issues, I constructed a cardboard sleigh that runs under the tender wheels, then folds up between the cab and the tender to hold it in place.  There is a slot in the upright part of the cardboard to accommodate the drawbar and the wiring harness between the loco and the tender.  This test was only run on straight track.  I was not sure that the cardboard sleigh would stay in place over curved track or turnouts.  Also, note that this loco picks up power from both sides in the driver wheels as well both sides of the tender wheels.

I was thinking that either the sleigh would make no difference or it would reduce or eliminate the shorts.  Instead, the sleigh INCREASED the number of shorts – by a whole lot – up from 1-4 shorts per lap around he track, to CONTSANT shorting.  As soon as the RailPro power supply would fire back up, it would immediately short again.  Moving the loco along the track did not stop the constant shorting.

I also tried running the loco backwards with the cardboard sleigh in place.  Now, for the first time, I got shorts when running backwards.

As a control, I put the cardboard sleigh on my other, nearly identical BLI 2-8-2.  It ran perfectly – no shorts.

I removed the cardboard.  Then, the loco returned to its usual periodic shorting when running forward and no shorts when running backwards.  Then I repeated the cardboard sleigh test, and got the same results as I did the first time.

Now here is the interesting part.

I noticed that, on the cardboard sleigh, every time the loco stalled, the drivers were nearly in the same place.  To see of this was true when the sleigh was removed, I did the following test.

I removed the sleigh and ran the loco around the track.  At each short, I and checked the position of the side rod crankpin on the right side of 4th driver.  I picked this driver, because it was the easiest to see.  This driver moves clockwise when viewed from the right side of the loco.  Crankpin locations were read as clock time.  I did this at different speeds, as the loco’s momentum causes the loco to move down the track a little after the power shuts down.

The results:
HC-2 Power = 25-30%.  Crankpin location:  2:00 (7 times), 3:00 (2 times), 4:00 (1 time).
HC-2 Power = 20%.  Crankpin location: 11:00  (5 times).
HC-2 Power = 16%.  Crankpin location  11:00 (2 times), 10:00 (9 times)
Note that 16% power was the slowest that I could run the loco smoothly.

So it appears that the short occurs when the crankpin on the right, rear driver is at the 10:00 position.  Of course this does NOT mean that the short is caused by the right, rear driver.  All of the drivers are moving in synch.  But it does strongly suggest that some part of the drive-wheel mechanism is involved in causing this short.

The other interesting question is:  If the short is related to the drive wheel mechanism, why does the cardboard sleigh (which goes nowhere near the drive wheel mechanism) make the short occur constantly?

Any ideas?
« Last Edit: February 29, 2020, 04:02:06 PM by MtRR75 »

Alan

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #4 on: February 29, 2020, 04:22:55 PM »
I would like to place a wager on the wiring/connector between the loco and tender. Do I have to be present to win?  ;D
Alan

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When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro

nodcc4me

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #5 on: February 29, 2020, 05:26:01 PM »
Doug, did you try hooking the faulty locomotive to the tender on the other locomotive that is running well?
Al

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MtRR75

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2020, 09:20:30 AM »
AL,

Yeah, I thought about swapping the tenders.  But the problem loco has a 7-wire plug, while the smooth-running loco is an older model and has a 6-wire plug.

Doug

nodcc4me

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2020, 12:03:53 PM »
As a last ditch effort, you could probably order a pair of 6 pin plug and 7 pin socket harnesses or vice versa from BLI or another source for testing purposes. You would have to figure out which wires go where. Then you could make an adapter harness with a 6 pin plug on one end and a 7 pin socket on the other, or vice versa.
Al

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MtRR75

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #8 on: March 04, 2020, 05:23:45 PM »
THE PROBLEM IS FIXED!!!

In my previous post, I indicated why I thought that the problem was somehow related to the rotation of the drivers.  So took the loco apart and searched the driver pickups for something loose and conductive that should not be there.

I noticed that the under the drive axles (excluding the 3rd axle where the motor was attached) there were 6 tiny, vertical springs (just a bit larger than KaDee coupler springs). These springs give the axles some vertical bounce to help the wheels stay on the track.  However, one of the springs was missing.

I was not sure if the missing spring was causing my problem, but I figured that I would have to order replacement springs from BLI to find out.  So I started to reassemble the loco, when suddenly the missing spring fell out from behind a driver and into my hand!  I reinstalled the spring, reassembled the loco and put it on the track.  NO SHORTS!

This problem consumed most of my train time for the last month and a half.  Now, I can finally get back to working on scenery.

Thanks again for your suggestions.

Doug

nodcc4me

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2020, 05:45:23 PM »
What are the odds of that happening? Glad you tracked down the problem.
Al

Run your train, not your brain. Get RailPro. It's a no-brainer.

faithie999

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2020, 06:32:51 PM »
tiny parts are supposed to get lost, not found!!!  is the apocalypse just around the corner?

good work!!

Alan

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Re: Problem with RailPro Loco
« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2020, 08:41:35 PM »
Dang, looks like I lost my wager.

Glad to hear you solved the problem.
Alan

LK&O Railroad website

When I was a kid... no wait, I still do that. HO, 28x32, double deck, 1969, RailPro