Linking/Speed Matching

[William Brillinger]

basically determine the max current, MUed the engines, and bingo you were done

Almost always this is true.  Just sometimes there are 'other factors' that can just cause trouble.

[Dean]

Usually setting up MU consist takes about 10 seconds. Faster if you don't have arthritis.   
I run MU consist with 5 locomotives and it takes just a minute to set up.

[KPack]

98%+ of all locomotives I have installed Railpro in have run well together well without any additional input besides setting the MFLC (Motor Full Load Current) once. 

However, there have been a couple of occasions where additional work was needed for one reason or another.  Sometimes a locomotive just doesn't like to play well together with others.  In one case after trying a few different things I found that manual setting the MFLC was the ticket to success.  Here's what I mean by manually setting the MFLC:

-Go to "settings" screen for the locomotive in question.  Scroll to the page where you can set the MFLC
-Tap on "Motor Full Load Current" tab
-The next screen will ask "Use Auto Set?"....now here's the critical part....press "No"
-This will take you to a screen where you can use the knob to adjust the MFLC to whatever value you want.  Play with the adjustment until the locomotive behaves better with the others.

I have only had to do this once, so this is not something that will need to be done often (if at all).  But it's another trick that you can keep up your sleeve for that rare time when a locomotive refuses to play well with others.  In my case the locomotive was consistently auto-setting at around 100mah (an excellent running Atlas), but would always take off well before any other locomotive.  I manually set the MFLC closer to 300mah and the problem was solved.

-Kevin

[Alan]

One caution when using manual stall current setting - if the chosen setting is higher than the locomotive's actual maximum current then there is a possibility the motor could overheat when placed under very heavy load or if bound up for some reason. Use manual current setting with care.

[Alan]

I was under the simplistic belief that you basically determine the max current, MUed the engines, and bingo you were done.

Normally, that is all you have to do. Something is unique about Dan's situation. Could be worse. If he were DCC he wouldn't even have made it to the forum yet. He would still be busy with CVs and setting up speed tables! 

[Dean]

"If he were DCC he wouldn't even have made it to the forum yet. He would still be busy with CVs and setting up speed tables!  "

How true!

[Antoine L.]

I personally enjoy when the engine starts moving around 20% myself. It gives time for the sound of the engine to notch up a few times before actual movement, a bit like the prototype would do. I am not fan of manual notching but I think the end result is interesting.

Antoine

[Alan]

I personally enjoy when the engine starts moving around 20% myself. It gives time for the sound of the engine to notch up a few times before actual movement, a bit like the prototype would do.

Good point. I do not use on-board sound. I will remember to take that into account when replying in the future.

[TwinStar]

I used to switch Centennial Yard in Ft Worth with an SD40-2 on the lead, a GENSET in the middle, and a GP15 on the rear. The 15 would load first and take up or push the slack, the SD40 would load and then pull or push all the weight, and the GENSET would just sit back there and catch on fire. This sounds prototypical to me!

[Alan]

Too funny!