Install in a P2K S-3?

[CPRail]

Has anyone attempted to install a LM-#S module in a P2K S-3 (ideally with a speaker)? I'm looking at mine and I think it'll fit, especially if I cut down the iPhone4 speaker and do some minor chassis grinding.

Of course, I'd rather not be the pioneer here...

[KPack]

C'mon Ian, take one for the team! 

[jimw]

I'll second that.  It would be really helpful to see some photos and comments about your approach.  I've been trying to solve a similar tight installation in an SD7 (my first), but I think yours is probably even more challenging. I'm really glad I'm not doing N gauge!

Jim W

[Josephbw]

I've done so many, I'm not sure, but I think I did one. I'll check this afternoon and get back to you.

Joe

[Josephbw]

OH CRAP, I looked at the question again and realized that you were talking about an S-3, not as RS-3. AADD rears it's ugly head again. Sorry.


Hi Ian,

I did a Walthers PK1000 RS-2, which should be about the same as yours. Well I tried to attach some pictures, but I got a message that I am not allowed to view that attachment.

Basically what I did was leave the light module in, wired to it, then mounted my LM over the tower behind the front truck. Then I mounted a Digitrax SP 10188 10mm x 18mm oval speaker on the bottom of the light module over the rear truck, using double sided tape. It's not as loud as the I Phone speaker, but you can hear it without straining.

When I get more time after supper, I'll try again to upload the pictures, after I figure out how to turn them right side up. Every way I tried to change the orientation I got the controls greyed out and unavailable. I guess that's what I get for using a windows phone. 


Here is the way I did the LM installation.


And here is the speaker mounted under the light board.


As I sat here looking at the first picture, I think if I removed the light  board, there would be room for an I phone speaker. If I had one back when I did this engine, I probably would have installed it. Maybe I'll change it out some day. 

[Lee Nicholas]

Ian.... I have installed 4 Atlas S2- S4 with speakers. I had to turn the flywheel down at one end to get the module in. I used a cell phone speaker and had to cut it down. I have pictures I can share.
Lee

[Antoine L.]

I have tried p2k s1 switcher install and failed due to lack of space. The hood was too narrow for the lm-2s and cramping it up in there was a real mess. I ended up breaking detail parts and losing patience.

I highly recommend going for the DCC ready version of anything which will most likely have space to fit the LMs.

Antoine

[Alan]

HO Atlas S1,2,3,4 old tooling is the same way. Hood too narrow. Insufficient space in cab.

I had to turn the flywheel down at one end to get the module in.

Same here. Had to remove about 0.060" from the rear flywheel. Also had to remove the LM electronics from its plastic case. Mounted the guts in top of hood (at cab end) with tiny styrene strips. Board bottom protected with Kapton.

[CPRail]

I've been looking at this install lately, and I think I have a plan. Some minor chassis grinding and it may all fit. Pics to follow in a bit. Hope I can squeeze in a K-A and a buzzed down iPhone speaker as well.

Stay Tuned.

[CPRail]

The Battle Begins...

Picture 1 is the OEM S3 chassis.

Picture 2 is the OEM S3 chassis with the 8 pin plug dummy board removed. Looks like a LM-3S will fit with some chassis mods.

[CPRail]

Picture 3 is the chassis with the mods marked for the LM-3S module

Picture 4 is the chassis with the location for a KA-3. Add in a bridge rectifier (they are teeny), and I might be able to squeeze in a cut down iPhone 4 speaker...


Thoughts from the experts? Am I headed in the right direction?

[CPRail]

Oops. Looks like I missed picture 3...

[CPRail]

Okay Gang, I'm miffed.

Thought I had this install in the bag (see the Install in a P2K S-3 thread for my plan). As I'm off during the holidays, I figured here's my chance to work on it.

I made the cuts/grinding as planned. Things were going well, when I found out that the K-A wasn't going to fit and that the LM-3S was bumping up against one of the weight mounting screws. No biggie, just ground out a notch for the LM-3S plugs to squeeze past the screw and do some grinding to open up some space for a sugar-cube and things should fit - especially if I hard wire everything to the 9 pin plug. K-A TBD, but should be able to do something.

Then I got cocky...   Figuring I'd need some extra play, I cut slots in the weight to open up the holes where the wires pass through the weights. All going well until I cut out the last slot and the weight snapped where I removed material for the sugar cube.

Pause, listen to hockey game, don't throw unit across room...

Figuring I'd have to make some kind of mount out of styrene, I pulled the weight and started fiddling to see how everything would fit. Turns out the LM-3S is just a wee bit too wide to fit nicely in the hood. Argh!

I know some of the experts here have unwrapped a LM. What does that gain me? Can I spread pieces around? Other than pooching the warranty, what other issues might doing this cause?

Those P2K S3s are light to start with, so I'd like to add weight if I could in the install.

Thoughts, comments, rude remarks?

[G8B4Life]

I know some of the experts here have unwrapped a LM. What does that gain me? Can I spread pieces around? Other than pooching the warranty, what other issues might doing this cause?

Removing the plastic case gains you (read removes) about 1mm of of width.  That 1mm might just be enough to fit the LM into the hood. You'd want to wrap the now exposed board with Kapton tape like Alan did. I wouldn't recommend heat shrinking it unless you has access to some good equipment for doing so.

No, you can't "spread around" the parts on the board.

Those P2K S3s are light to start with, so I'd like to add weight if I could in the install.

I know this isn't exactly what you asked but does the top weight keep the motor in (secured in place) at all? If not I'd be inclined to toss it. It'd be providing very little weight value to the model so if you did away with it you could possibly secure the LM to the motor directly (or make a small styrene shelf) and then you might have room in the shell for something heavier than the diecast weight.

If you'd really like something heavier, you could always go the way of Jim FitzGerald and his "Cotton Brute"'s  Google that one if your not familiar with it.

- Tim

[William Brillinger]

Ian,

Looking at Alan's unwrapped LM-2 I'd say you can gain more than just the space.





( Images from http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/18968 )

with some surgery to the plugs, you can solder directly to the board and gain some length and height too.