Yellow LED's

[TwinStar]

RPUG:

As my signature says I'm modeling the Dallas Union Terminal complex in the 1950-60 time frame. I'm to the point of building the Triple Underpass bridge and want to install the lights that illuminate this structure both internal and external. I want the yellow glow of the older lights and not the heaven white of the new LED's but I do want the durability of an LED. I'd also like this complex on a light activated switch. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

[Alan]

Select your LEDs by wavelength or temperature instead of by generic color name. For incandescent lamp color pick something in the 660 - 700 nm  (wavelength) or 2500 - 3000K (temperature) range.

[KPack]

And if you think the LEDs you get are too white or blue, you can always do a thin wash of yellow acrylic over them and it will change the color.  Same principle as the weathering demo I did in Wyoming...light coats until you get what you want.  Don't like how it turned out?  Gently scrape it off and do it again.

-Kevin

[TwinStar]

Select your LEDs by wavelength or temperature instead of by generic color name. For incandescent lamp color pick something in the 660 - 700 nm  (wavelength) or 2500 - 3000K (temperature) range.

Alan, thanks! I'll take a look around.

[TwinStar]

Select your LEDs by wavelength or temperature instead of by generic color name. For incandescent lamp color pick something in the 660 - 700 nm  (wavelength) or 2500 - 3000K (temperature) range.

Alan, thanks! I'll take a look around.

Kevin, I never would have thought of that but that's brilliant.

[PatP]

RPUG:

As my signature says I'm modeling the Dallas Union Terminal complex in the 1950-60 time frame. I'm to the point of building the Triple Underpass bridge and want to install the lights that illuminate this structure both internal and external. I want the yellow glow of the older lights and not the heaven white of the new LED's but I do want the durability of an LED. I'd also like this complex on a light activated switch. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Jacob,

Don't forget to play around with resistors for the LEDs. Dimmer will be better to model incandescent bulbs, probably something less than 14 mA, which puts you at 600ohm or higher for 12v. Just a thought.

PatP

(by the way, you being a Texan, I you know any linemen around Houston tell them Central Florida says thanks. Texas boys from Point One got my power hooked back up last night.)

[TwinStar]

Pat:

Will do.

And no, I don't. However, I was in Beaumont when Rita came ashore in '05 and I recall FPL trucks around my area lending a hand. I'm glad we could return the favor. Hope everything else is returning to normal.

[MRL Trains]

 I've had great luck with these.  Miniatronics Yeloglo.  They call them White but they have that yellow tinge, not super white or bluish.

https://www.miniatronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=M&Product_Code=12-310-05&Category_Code=6_4&Product_Count=2

Chris

[TwinStar]

Thanks Chris, I'l check those out.

[Lee Nicholas]

Jacob

Try wrapping it in Kaptan tape. I did that and it put out a nice yellow tint. Might work for you.

Lee Nicholas

[TwinStar]

Size will be a major factor as they have to mount in the 'flower pot' looking piece on the bottom to illuminate the face. Maybe a surface mount?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/KZWADZATA/triple-underpass-walkway-pillar?optionId=63425296&li=shop-inventory