Recent Posts

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RailPro Discussion / Re: Fried LM-2S
« Last post by KPack on August 20, 2017, 04:58:41 PM »
I've done that before, and the repair was quick as well.  Lesson learned, and now I'm far more careful with being sure all my wire junctions are fully insulated.  It only takes one time!

-Kevin
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RailPro Discussion / Fried LM-2S
« Last post by TwinStar on August 20, 2017, 03:30:38 PM »
I fried an LM and had to return it for repair. Apparently, I carelessly allowed an audio output to short with a hot wire. This killed the entire LM. $30 repair bill and the turnaround time was quick.

Be careful!

Jacob
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General Discussion / Re: Removing decals
« Last post by Morebassman on August 18, 2017, 10:44:33 AM »
I can understand that but I guess my main gripe was that the kato numbers for me were difficult to remove. I was so worried about messing up the paint.
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General Discussion / Re: Removing decals
« Last post by emd_16645 on August 17, 2017, 10:34:41 AM »
Some manufacturers did offer models that were unnumbered, but unfortunately they tended to not sell as well as the numbered models and the practice has been discontinued.  Same goes for undec models in a lot of cases as well.
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General Discussion / Re: Removing decals
« Last post by Morebassman on August 14, 2017, 02:06:59 PM »
Ok this is what I have experienced on kato decals. This was on the main side of loco.  They suck to remove. Tried the microsol, tried the 91% alchohol, (Lots of patience). Ended up after all of the processing ... used an xacto knife....and carefuly removed the 6 (Rd.# 7216)... Then Tried to add the 0 to make it Rd. # 7210. (I was successful)  Note... I planned on the 0 but it just happened to work out to cover the 6
Main shell was not that much of a problem with xacto knife. So I am done but hope not to do this again

Now to the fun part.   The number boards.... I had 12 decales.. (# 0) By the time i finished with this one loco.... I have (0)  left...
Here is what happened...  Some that wouldn't stick, some that would tear, and some that tore on place after I was done and thought all was well..
I went back to find out that one had mysteriously jumped off and landed on my bench? 
Overall I am happy with the outcome but I wish manufactures would let us apply our own rd.#
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RailPro Discussion / Re: Making a Lanyard for your RailPro HC
« Last post by ThurmanHol on August 14, 2017, 01:29:49 AM »
Cool lanyard, I might have to make one of these as I'm always misplacing my RailPro.
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General Discussion / Re: Removing decals
« Last post by Viper on August 12, 2017, 02:21:37 PM »
yep Alcohol and many Q tips and lots of patience :)
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General Discussion / Re: Removing decals
« Last post by Morebassman on August 12, 2017, 08:17:23 AM »
Thanks Alan. I'll give a try alittle later.
 :)
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General Discussion / Re: Removing decals
« Last post by Alan on August 11, 2017, 04:11:26 PM »
Have you tried a bit of alcohol on a swab or toothpick? Usually takes a little precision rubbing to get the job done.

http://www.katousa.com/consumers/changing-numbers.html
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General Discussion / Removing decals
« Last post by Morebassman on August 11, 2017, 01:58:02 PM »
I bought 2 Kato SD80macs with the same road # by mistake. Both are 7216. I tried the various tecs. at utube (Micro sol) ... only to find that kato has a silkscreen process for decales. No matter how long I leave the micro sol on, it will not release. How can I remove these #'s Safely?
I have seen one description of using 91% alcohol but cautions on paint removal.
HELP!
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