I believe the standard is 4 chuffs for each full rotation of the drivers. You may have to set each locomotive differently depending upon the diameter of the wheels.

Check out this thread: https://rpug.pdc.ca/index.php/topic,1305.msg9826.html#msg9826

Basically designed for higher voltage.

Sure seems like LEDs the most straightforward option.

small lights can draw a lot of current, and using Ohms law V=IR, for a given wattage of bulb, and the voltage goes down, the current goes up.

So, unless the "common" voltage is pretty low, you could have some current in the lamps, almost equaling the motor!

No one offered what the "common" for lights is, but I would guess it is rectified track/input voltage, about the worst case situation for 1.5 v bulbs.

Greg

Update: I cannot find a "manual", but the 2 page "instruction sheet" shows and implies that the common for lights is rectified track power, so 1.5 volt incandescent lamps should really not be connected without a resistor, even though that is a poor way to limit current in this case.

The Dimming feature uses PWM to reduce the AVERAGE current, but full voltage "spikes" would be applied to the 1.5 volt bulbs, and that could indeed cause overheating. Just reducing the "brightness" may still overload the system.

In absence of any specs on max current per output, and max total lighting current, one can only guess, or see if you get overheating, as you are experiencing.

put in the LEDs with appropriate dropping resistors my best recommendation..

Thank you Greg, I appreciate your assistance. Tim also has been a great help in showing me how these systems work.         Dave

A bridge rectifier is needed to install a TCS keep-alive with the LM2. I posted about my install here with a Front Range geep, and someone else posted details of the circuit. It's not difficult. In '22 Ring told me the adaptor board is not available.